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Reevaluating urban areas, a “dry” bottle shop, and a pub that treats non-drinkers with respect.
1. STÖR/Reevaluating Urban Areas
Mayor Bruce Harrell has allocated a considerable amount of public finances and community efforts on the notion that downtown Seattle is on the edge of collapse, believing that the only remedy is to inject funds into law enforcement (to curb “disorder” and detain addicts), pop-up park activities (large Connect Four games, government-sanctioned performers), and graffiti removal initiatives.
PubliCola’s office is situated in Pioneer Square, where, just last week, a number of local gift shops were thriving, and an affordable Korean restaurant was busy with patrons. This is the area of downtown I frequently observe—and it’s definitely not dying. However, what about the other end of the main city?
Recently, I visited an art showcase in the previous Bergman Luggage storefront—a place I had never needed to go to when it was operational, either before or after the pandemic. The current exhibit, STÖR, presents a surreal, anti-consumerist (somewhat) take on IKEA where, instead of mass-produced BILLY bookcases, the items on display feature an inflatable fireplace (FLUFHARTH) and a lamp playfully encased in a layer of blonde hair (HÅRIG). Similar to the Swedish retailer, the exhibit has directional arrows to lead visitors through a range of unexpected corners, a setup that prompted me to silently exclaim “look at this!” every few steps as I stumbled upon a torn cane chair “fixed” with sparkling beads or a “Mini-STÖR” filled with tiny versions of the furniture available for purchase.
For over a year, the vast old luggage storage area—an enterprise that was arguably outdated even before the pandemic closed it down—has been home to public art exhibitions thanks to BaseCamp Studios, which took over the location in 2023 and recently obtained additional funding from the Allen Foundation. This showcase gave me a reason to stroll around Belltown—an area where some residents appear to think has been ruined by graffiti—and spend some money in the local economy (I purchased this quirky glass nightlight), something I rarely did when the venue was an expensive suitcase shop.
STÖR, through January 10, 1901 3rd Ave. More details about current and upcoming exhibits: BaseCamp Studios
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2. Cheeky and Dry
Why did it take me so long to go to Seattle’s sole non-alcoholic bottle shop? One reason, I suppose, is that it’s located in Phinney Ridge, a place I seldom visit unless I’m making a trip to Windy City Pie (with a detour to Phinney Books beforehand or afterward). About a year after its opening, I finally visited a couple of weeks ago and was amazed by the incredible selection of n/a drinks packed into such a small space. They have many of my favorites, undoubtedly—for me, Pathfinder and Wilderton embody the gold standard for “adult”-flavored nonalcoholic cocktails—but they also carry numerous unfamiliar brands, ranging from whiskey alternatives to 0-proof sparkling wines to n/a beers that I’ve not encountered in other Seattle shops.
In terms of decor, Cheeky and Dry slightly reminds me of Boisson, the (now-defunct) chain of bottle shops that expanded across New York City over the past few years. However, in terms of atmosphere, it more closely resembles Manhattan’s Spirited Away, which touts itself as “America’s first booze-free bottle shop”: Both establishments offer tastings, welcome inquiries, and are eager to inform patrons about the benefits and drawbacks of various choices that often differ from their alcoholic versions in ways that might be surprising.
Looking for something that resembles a “real” drink? Opt for Pathfinder or one of the tequilas infused with capsaicin for a burn similar to alcohol. In need of a wine for dinner? You can hardly go wrong with a dry white or rosé sparkling bottle, but avoid the still reds and whites, which aren’t quite there yet. Better yet, don’t just take my word for it—head over to Cheeky and Dry and consult the specialists.
Cheeky and Dry, 6120 Phinney Ave., Seattle, website for operating hours and product inventory
The Nonalcoholic Menu at Liberty Bar
3. When I decided to stop drinking in early 2015, there truly was no such thing as a refined adult beverage for non-drinkers; the best that most bars could offer was soda water with a splash of bitters—perhaps an exotic flavor like black walnut if they had it available for other, “real” drinks.
These days, however, it is feasible to go out with friends to a conventional cocktail bar (noHecate in Seattle, however) and enjoy a meticulously crafted drink, envisioned and perfected by a genuine bartender, for around the same cost as a “real” cocktail.
(There’s an extensive discussion online regarding whether establishments charge “too much” for non-alcoholic beverages. The consensus is that, typically, they do not, particularly if they’re investing in nonalcoholic spirits, which may retail for $40 or higher. Even if I’m facing a larger markup for, let’s say, a shrub and soda than my companion who selected a sophisticated Manhattan, I find it worthwhile to be treated like an adult, not a juvenile requesting a juicebox. However, if you’re going to ask me for $5 for soda water from the tap, I won’t return).
Liberty, located on Capitol Hill, features a changing selection of five non-alcoholic choices, each priced between $12 and $17, with only one being a shrub and soda. I recently sampled the Jennifer N-Aniston (“lemon and lime juice, fig syrup, peach bitters, and topped with ginger beer,” according to the menu) and the Blacker the Berry (“Wilderton lustre, brambleberry syrup, and lime, topped with Jøyus sparkling rosé”); both were intricate, deserving of slow appreciation, and made me feel valued at a cocktail bar—a refreshing change from the vacant expressions I received from numerous bartenders merely a few years back.
Liberty, 517 15th Ave. E, operating hours available on website
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