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During all this, I reflected on a discussion I had the previous night during my flight to London. The individual beside me inquired about my profession. I informed her that I was commemorating my 10th year as the Globe’s travel correspondent. She responded with a sentiment echoed by many when I share details about my career.
“You have the ultimate job in the world.”
Indeed, apart from stolen smartphones, endless hours of uncomfortable journeys, missed birthdays, dinners, and holidays, absent phone chargers, subpar airport meals, inadequate hotel food, awkward discussions about global politics with taxi drivers, countless hours of disrupted sleep, and one misplaced suitcase.
However, between you, me, and the cat lounging by the canal in Rotterdam (named King), I do possess the best job in the world. At least, it’s the finest I’ve ever experienced. A decade ago, when I was invited to assume the role of travel writer, I had my reservations, and occasionally I question whether, perhaps, I’m a bit off my rocker.
Nonetheless, there have also been times when I’ve piloted a speedboat past George Clooney’s villa on Lake Como (more than once) shouting his name, cycled through the Swiss Alps, explored the Great Barrier Reef in Australia, stood atop a glacier in Patagonia, and even received a marriage proposal in Montreal. Please take a seat, unpack that suitcase, and allow me to present a morsel of my best and worst travel experiences. This is a G-rated sampling. If I were to delve deeply, the tale would be ten times longer, not particularly family-friendly, and I’d likely be dismissed. Shall we proceed?
My summer excursion to appreciate the quirky charms of the Jersey Shore was particularly noteworthy for two reasons. Firstly, Wildwood boasts a plethora of retro-inspired mid-century architecture (known as Googie). It’s a whimsical nostalgia of neon signs and classic mom-and-pop inns, harking back to a time when hot dogs were deemed a wholesome component of the food pyramid and parents applied coconut-scented tanning oil on their children rather than hypoallergenic SPF 100 sunscreen. Beyond its time-traveling allure, the Wildwood adventure marked my first trip outside of New England since COVID-19 disrupted travel in March 2020. For the first time in months, I felt hopeful that traveling might not be daunting forever.
A colleague sent me a digital promo for “Gronk’s Party Cruise” and dared me to indulge in a lengthy weekend exploring the wild world of ex-New England Patriot Rob Gronkowski. He issued the challenge (which turned out to be a beer funnel), and I took it up. I brought along a buddy and former co-worker to chronicle the Bro-tastic adventure. Gronk’s team didn’t foresee journalists being present. Unsurprisingly, they were anxious about what we might publish. We witnessed many patrons enjoying themselves until they were heaving over the ship’s edge, at which point the merriment ceased. Additionally, there was a visit to Gronk Island, where the Gronkmeister proposed $10,000 “for a couple to engage in front of everyone”! Cue the theme tune: “If you adore piña coladas, and experience a slight stinging while urinating…”
Following a disappointing work jaunt to Bogota, my expectations were low when my husband and a few friends arranged a getaway to the Colombian locales of Medellín and Cartegena, but I was happy to tag along. Writing about travel for a living means seizing every journey planned by others. Unlike my Bogota encounter, I discovered Medellín to be a lively, metropolitan locale. After years of alarming tales about drug syndicates, abductions, and domestic violence, I was not anticipating, “Medellín will be secure and enjoyable!” However, I was greatly mistaken. Dismiss Pablo Escobar. Medellín is a lively, affordable gem nestled in the Andes. I enjoyed it so thoroughly that I transformed my getaway into a travel article.
Whenever I get asked, “What’s your favorite destination?” for a long period, my automatic reply was, “Lake Como, Italy.” It sounded glamorous, and those who had visited would nod in approval. The actual answer is a bit more intricate. For beach locales, my top picks are Bora Bora and the Cook Islands. The Caribbean Island I prefer is either St. Bart’s or Martinique, plus I thoroughly enjoy Slovenia and Spain in Europe. I’m also quite fond of Iceland and Portugal. While I’m sincere in saying Lake Como is a favorite, if I tally up the narratives I’ve penned about a city, Montreal takes the lead. Furthermore, I have a deep affection for Montreal. The cuisine is exquisite, and there’s always a trendsetting festival occurring. Additionally, it is where my spouse proposed on July 16, 2014, at the conclusion of a challenging yet delightful family cruise, establishing it as my ultimate favorite.
Contrary to exceptionally lavish experiences like residing in a $2,000-a-night hotel in Vermont or trying out Ritz Carlton’s latest yacht, Havana presented a very different reality. One of the hotels I encountered displayed dark, unattractive mold spots flourishing on the ceiling. Another showcased dust bunnies comparable in size to Fiats residing in a corner. The city appeared to be deteriorating, save for a street adorned in beautiful pastels and populated with automobiles from the 1950s. My visit was inspired by the recent lifting of travel restrictions by the Obama administration after years of closure to the majority of American tourists. Outside of Havana, I discovered a realm where horse-drawn carts were still in operation and shops carried scant supplies. However, I was charmed by the friendliness and hospitality of the locals who inundated me with inquiries about Americans and their views on Cuba. Additionally, some remarkable meals and breathtaking natural beauty captured my heart.
I cherish the allure of train travel and was keen to explore an overnight journey in the US that was more enjoyable than Amtrak’s Silver Meteor, which operates along the East Coast. My experience on the Silver Meteor left me believing that drifters on the rails might be treated more favorably than the passengers on the Meteor. At least their makeshift beds likely offered more comfort and hygiene. I had a significantly more pleasant experience on the Empire Builder, Amtrak’s overnight service that traverses some of the country’s most picturesque areas — specifically Glacier National Park. Although it’s a step up from the Silver Meteor, broadly speaking, Amtrak could enhance its offering considerably. Judging by reader feedback, I sense considerable interest in an alternative to flying.
In addition to lie-flat first-class seats and peppermint stick ice cream, my greatest weakness is cats. So picture my reaction upon arriving at a tropical isle where over 600 cats played in the Hawaiian sunshine within a meticulously maintained 3-acre sanctuary. The Lanai Cat Sanctuary originated in a barn at the nearby Four Seasons Lanai to help manage the island’s cat population while also safeguarding the rare birds that the strays preyed upon. Presently, it serves not only as a haven for well-cared-for felines but also as a blissful retreat for those who sometimes prefer the company of cats over humans.
I had been composing travel pieces for approximately a year when I grew more ambitious. I organized a two-week journey along the Western coast of Turkey, commonly referred to as the Turkish Riviera. However, from the time I mapped out the journey to when I set off, events in the country had begun to deteriorate. There were bombings, the Syrian refugee situation, and political demonstrations. Nonetheless, I made the choice to proceed, and I’m thankful for that. Traveling isn’t always ideal, and anyone who claims otherwise is either an influencer whose role involves filtering reality for complimentary getaways, or a television host with a production crew to iron out issues. For the rest of us, the world isn’t an immaculate, Instagram-filtered realm, which adds to its allure.
Even with my tough exterior and the icy resolve within me, I make an effort to remain optimistic about my adventures and the destinations I visit. Yet at times, you encounter a dreadful situation that can test even the most compassionate travel writer.
Christopher Muther can be contacted at christopher.muther@globe.com. Follow him @Chris_Muther and on Instagram @chris_muther.
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