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In French, the city of Montreal derives its name from “Mont Royal”, the hill where French adventurers established their claim nearly 500 years ago. For English Canadians, the metropolis symbolizes joy and celebration, while the remainder of the nation cherishes this bilingual outlier for the vibrancy it injects into everything from style to exquisite dining to artistic expression. A lively, around-the-clock energy infuses the uneven cobbled avenues of Old Montreal, while the narrow streets (ruelles vertes) of the uptown Plateau district thrive on affordable prices, extended hours, and incredibly friendly personnel, eager to greet you with a “Bonjour, hello” in their melodic Québecois accent. The francophone community has also embraced this amiable location: Haitians, Moroccans, and even the true French have made it their own. You’ll observe the remnants of British influence in the grey-stone structures (and boisterous student pubs) of the Golden Mile, which once served as the cultural hub of Montreal. Although its impressive allure continues to attract visitors, there’s an impression that the city has evolved.
• Morning: Bota Bota
• Lunch: Olive et Gourmando
• Afternoon: Old Montreal
• Drink: Le 9e
• Evening: McGill University and Mount Royal
• Dinner: Mercuri 109
• Morning: Mile End
• Lunch: Juliette Plaza
• Afternoon: Centre des Mémoires Montréalaises
• Drink: Pikliz
• Evening: Atwater market
• Dinner: Bonheur d’Occasion
Bota Bota is a floating wellness center located in Montreal’s Old Port
ALAMY
● Unwind at Bota Bota, a five-level transformed houseboat equipped with warm and cool tubs, saunas, and sun terraces. The “quiet areas” extend into a spacious garden and a pool where chatting is permitted. Views across the St Lawrence River showcase mid-century icons like the cement Habitat 67 building and the transparent Biosphere geodesic dome, both constructed for the 1967 World Expo (two hours starting from £34; botabota.ca).
● Nearly 400 years ago, a fur trade hub thrived along the narrow brick pathways by the river, manned by French settlers and Iroquois at the forefront. Presently known as Vieux (Old) Montreal, this area is still enchanting for a stroll, although the trade has transitioned to trendy fashion and trinkets. Meander through Saint-Paul, Place d’Youville, and Saint-Sulpice, where the stunningly gothic Notre Dame basilica resides (£9; basiliquenotredame.ca).
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● Head over to McGill College Avenue. With the towering modern steel sculpture titled The Ring at your rear, traverse McGill University, often dubbed the Harvard of the North. The campus ascends halfway up the namesake Mount Royal, where an intertwining network of wooded trails takes over. If you’re able, tackle the 350 steps to the viewing deck. You’ll be rewarded with wonderful views over the river valley (free).
Vibrant homes define the Plateau vicinity
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● The finest literature, music, and poetry (greetings, Leonard Cohen) emanate from Mile End. It is also home to the best shops. Independent and vintage stores gather along Boulevard Saint-Laurent, referred to as “the Main”. The legendary denim haven Jeans Jeans Jeans is tucked away in a converted warehouse off Rue Saint-Viateur (jeansjeansjeans.ca). Go in the opposite direction and you will discover two locations of the esteemed St-Viateur bagel establishment. Enjoy them fresh, priced around £1 each (stviateurbagel.com).
● Numerous museums showcase Montreal’s artistic scene, but the Centre des Mémoires Montréalaises (MEM) showcases its essence. An entrance adorned with an array of vintage neon signs leads into exhibition halls filled with film and photography depicting city life for the past century. The gift shop is designed to resemble a traditional dépanneur, or convenience store, offering nostalgic candies, local sodas, and £10 bags displaying the city’s Métro logo (£9; memmtl.ca).
● Residents gather at this locale by the Lachine Canal for leisurely walks, setting off on waterside bike rides, and shopping at Atwater Market, an eye-catching art deco building surrounded by flower stalls. Inside, collect provisions for a picnic from Fromagerie Hamel or a tin of Québecois maple syrup in vintage aluminum packaging showcasing the original 1951 design (marchespublics-mtl.com/marches/atwater).
Residents enjoy the art deco Atwater Market food court
ALAMY
Nutritious yet indulgent, the “sconewiches” and salads offered at this deli-café located in the historic old town provide a delightful post-spa experience. A challah grilled cheese is composed of two varieties of Swiss cheese accompanied by a container of dipping ketchup; the Salty Ricotta “salad”, paired with garlic bread, features a light amount of rapini and an abundance of nuts, parmesan, currants, and house vinaigrette (main dishes starting at £11; oliveetgourmando.com).
Last year saw the grand reopening of the century-old Eaton department store’s ninth-floor dining establishment — “the Neuvième” — following a major renovation that restored its “deco moderne” carvings and cruise ship-like windows to their radiant brilliance (be sure to witness the impressive view from the women’s restroom). The thrill of people-watching is best savored at the original circular bar with a “Flip Écossais” whiskey cocktail (cocktails commencing from £10; le9montreal.com).
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The king of Italian cuisine in Montreal, chef Joe Mercuri, breathed new life into his career with the establishment of this elongated, low “bar à manger” in a repurposed newsstand (in French, 109 is pronounced as sang neuf, meaning “new blood”). Patrons dine at the counter, engaging with Mercuri himself as he masterfully sauces the seared wild salmon and braises the oxtail for his ricotta ravioli each evening (six-course dinner for £69; mercuri109.com).
The once-fading Saint-Hubert market street is transforming thanks to Juliette. As the sister restaurant to the nearby bistro Montreal Plaza, it offers traditional Québécois dishes such as maple syrup-infused cocktail sausages, devilled eggs, and pork belly served with pineapple ketchup. This sense of nostalgia carries over into the decor: the walls are adorned with Asterix strips, and toy figures — bonhommes — are placed on every table (mains from £10; montrealplaza.com).
A constant stream of friends fills this lively Haitian café in the emerging St-Henri, aptly named after a kimchi-style condiment. Visitors gather during happy hour for lager served in short bottles and “drinks” (according to Haitian Creole) such as hibiscus lemonade with tequila (starting at £6; restaurantpikliz.com).
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Drawing inspiration from Atwater Market — along with numerous local fisheries and farms — this spacious, wood-themed restaurant designs its menu around prime scallops, char, asparagus, or squash au moment. Energetic servers present shareable plates garnished with fresh herbs, drenched in zesty vinaigrettes, or immersed in creamy hazelnut butter (mains starting from £18; bonheurdoccasion.net).
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Boutique Hôtel William Gray boasts welcoming staff and a prime location
ALEXI HOBBS
Social buzz in the old town
This somewhat recent boutique hotel, blending heritage cottage aesthetics with contemporary glass elements, feels akin to a private club situated in a vibrant — and bustling — locale. Glide past the doorman while onlookers gaze, then unwind on the rooftop terrace where, during winter, each table is safeguarded by its own transparent dome. The staff exhibits an unpretentious friendliness and ease, even amid the lively chaos in the sparkling atrium “living room.” Utilize the full-service spa and thermal water circuit for an additional charge; however, Bota Bota (as mentioned above) is conveniently nearby (room-only doubles starting at £154; hotelwilliamgray.com).
Local pied à terre
This upscale inn enhances its quaint parkside allure with exposed brick, floral quilts, and a rustic cabin vibe. The personable staff assists with parking options and recommends poutine (Ma Poule Mouillée, five minutes away). Breakfast, an attractive £10 upgrade, includes fresh croissants sourced from the beloved local bakery, though this prime Plateau locale offers an abundance of dining choices (room-only doubles from £73; aubergedelafontaine.com).
Vogue Hotel features roomy standard accommodations
Urban refuge
This esteemed Golden Mile establishment recently unveiled a refined design with plush leather and travertine. Standard accommodations are nearly as expansive as premium king rooms, starting at 35 sq m, and filled with Le Labo goodies for the tub (and separate shower). The name nods to the designer department store directly across the street — and the fashionable crowd that frequents the bar and restaurant on weekends. À la carte breakfast offers a more subdued atmosphere, yet service can be slow (room-only doubles starting at £173; hilton.com).
Air Canada operates direct flights from London Heathrow with an average travel duration of approximately seven hours; the airport is roughly 30 minutes away from the downtown area. British Airways flights departing from Heathrow are similarly priced. The neighborhoods are pedestrian-friendly — and traversing on foot is advised during daytime due to vehicular congestion. Taxis are readily available and fares are competitive. You’ll come across Bixi Bikes (bixi.com) nearly everywhere — simply download the app and unlock one for under £1.
Montreal has excellent train connectivity, facilitating easy travel across the Quebec province. Pettitts provides a week-long dual-centre journey that includes stays in Montreal and Quebec City, the historic provincial capital featuring a UNESCO-listed old town. The transit between the two cities is accomplished by train along the St Lawrence River, showcasing views of the Laurentian mountains and allowing for an optional day excursion to Mount Tremblant — a favored spot for autumn foliage viewing, winter skiing, and summer activities; seven nights’ accommodation only from £1,700pp, inclusive of flights and train travel (pettitts.co.uk)
Ellen Himelfarb was hosted by Destination Canada (destinationcanada.com) and Tourisme Montréal (mtl.org)
Have you traveled to Montreal? Share your experiences in the comments
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