Sunkissed Escapes: Six Enchanting Coastal Retreats in Southern Europe

Loutro, Crete, Greece

From one perspective, Loutro can be perceived as either starkly inhospitable or an exceptional piece of coastal beauty. Nestled against Crete’s imposing White Mountains, this diminutive harbour – a blend of white and blue, caressed by the Libyan Sea – is accessible solely by boat or on foot. It takes commitment to arrive here; however, once you’ve acclimatized to its rhythms, departing becomes even more challenging.

People have been making that journey for thousands of years. Loutro is located on the remnants of Phoenix, an ancient harbour from both Greek and Roman times. It was used by Saracen pirates as a base for raiding passing vessels. The Venetians expelled them and erected a small fortress; later, the Turks repeated the feat, leaving ruins of both that still cling to the hills. But now, such turbulence has vanished. Loutro feels detached from such events. Detached from everything. Here, life is condensed to approximately 400 metres, the distance between the first taverna and the last.

I arrived, traversing part of the magnificent E4 trail commencing 6,300 miles away, in Spain. Hot and humid, I settled into a modest room at Hotel Ilios (starting at around €55), right at the water’s edge – most of Loutro’s accommodations are positioned thusly. With the windows opened wide, I leaned back and listened: gentle chants from the church, the entrancing swish of the sea. My hosts were the Androulakakis family: the elder gentleman kept watch from a chair in the shade while his spouse crafted creamy tzatziki, Sfakian cheese pie, and fish stew in the kitchen; their sons served the meals, including carafes of drinkable rosé and, of course, raki – the potent finale to every meal, complimentary and abundantly available.

It required no more than two minutes to stroll from my room to a small stretch of pebbles and sand for a swim. Nonetheless, for a more spectacular swimming experience, it’s preferable to walk 45 minutes east to Glyka Nera, also known as Sweetwater Beach, an exquisite bay framed by towering cliffs. At the nearest end, there is a floating café, complete with a few parasols – remarkably civilized.

The distant end caters to naturists. I had never bared it all before, but I found it impossible to resist here. Perhaps it was the hue of the sea – equally a mix of azure, cerulean, turquoise, emerald, and teal. Maybe it was the raki. Or perhaps it was the sensation of being visible only to others who had made the same journey. Regardless of the reason, I stripped off and dove into the refreshing waters.
Sarah Baxter

Stromboli, Italy

I have an obsession with islands: the more diminutive and isolated, the better. I yearn to feel as though I’m far removed from the world, in a wild and enchanting place that could be from a fairytale or myth, a locale that instills belief in dragons, where anything seems possible.

Stromboli embodies all these characteristics. It appears to be an island from childhood imagination, shooting straight up from the sea as one approaches by boat, green and triangular in form. It’s one of the most remote islands in the Aeolian archipelago that punctuates the Tyrrhenian sea between Sicily’s north coast and the tip of Italy’s toe. A hydrofoil operates from the Sicilian harbour of Milazzo.

Strabo, the ancient Greek geographer, noted that this was considered the residence of Aeolus, the wind god. I visited as part of my journey to explore the islands that inspired The Odyssey, and as soon as I disembarked from the boat, I sensed it too. There’s something raw and otherworldly about the energy here.

While dragons may be absent, there is one of the world’s most active volcanoes. Stromboli – the title of both the island and its volcano – ejects fiery projectiles into the sky so regularly that it’s dubbed “the lighthouse of the Mediterranean”. There are boat excursions available to observe the eruptions from the sea, or you can hike up the volcano either independently or with a guided group.

I began my ascent in the late afternoon (the hike takes approximately four to five hours; be sure to carry a headlamp and layers as the temperature drops on the mountain at night). As I climbed, the sunset filled the sky with pink, orange, and gold hues, softening the horizon. Night-blooming jasmine began to scent the atmosphere, and I could hear the waves crashing against the rocks far below. By the time I reached the observation point, night had enveloped the surroundings. I gazed up at one of the deepest and darkest night skies I’ve ever witnessed. The volcano sent flames and smoke soaring into the sky, and it was a moment that transported me, quietly appreciative of all this magnificence and potency, the volcano and the stars, and the gentle soughing of the sea.

Stromboli isn’t known for luxurious hotels, but there is a reasonable selection of simple guesthouses and apartments available in San Vincenzo, the principal village, including the traditional

Pensione Aquilone (double rooms starting at €60).

La Bottega Del Marano is a quaint deli located in the village, while Ristorante l’Osservatorio, roughly a 30-minute walk away, provides stunning views of the volcano. The island’s beaches boast black sand, with Piscità being the most attractive. For those eager to venture further, Ginostra, a settlement on the opposite side of the volcano, can only be reached by boat and mule.
Laura Coffey, writer of Enchanted Islands: Travels Through Myth & Magic, Love & Loss

Menton, France

Nestled in the southeast region of France, located between the Italian frontier and Monaco, Menton enjoys warmth from its steep cliffs and the glistening Mediterranean. Personally, I can think of no finer place to seek early sunshine. The town is notable for its unique sweet lemon variety, celebrated each February with a grand festival, yet its microclimate supports the growth of all citrus fruits.

A perfect initial visit would be to the Val-Rahmeh Botanic Garden. On my last visit, I meandered along the winding paths enveloping the ochre-colored 19th-century villa at its core, discovering trees laden with pomelo, clementines, and Buddha’s hand fruit – its yellow digits hiding among the foliage. In other areas, towering cacti, sharp-limbed palms, and the soft-fringed leaves of banana trees contributed to the exotic ambiance. Adjacent to the garden, I stepped into the town’s own olive grove, Le Parc Départemental du Pian, where seniors were engaging in a game of pétanque on the sun-kissed ground. It’s a short distance to one of the town’s numerous beaches, Plage des Sablettes, where you can feel the crunch of sand beneath your feet while gazing up at the belltower of the old town’s Basilique Saint-Michel Archange de Menton.

Menton’s covered market, Marché des Halles, is a place worth visiting for its stalls filled with glossy vegetables, tempting pastries, and odorous cheeses. It’s also an ideal spot to grab a slice of socca, a chickpea pancake representing the Côte d’Azur’s traditional street food. While the paper bag warmed my hands, I ventured through the maze of yellow and orange-hued streets of the old town, just a short stroll away.

Above me swayed lines of laundry, dancing in the gentle wind, and from behind green-shuttered windows, I could hear the soft clinking of cutlery and glasses, hinting that lunchtime was nearing. I discovered a place to dine on the steps of the Basilique, relishing the crispy, golden socca while gazing out towards the harbor.

The winding paths and stairs of the historical district eventually guide visitors to the summit of the hill, where an ornate cemetery showcases avenues lined with grand tombs and gravestones bearing the names of English and Russian individuals who believed that wintering on the Côte d’Azur would alleviate their tuberculosis – instead, the humidity worsened their condition. In an ironic twist, their final resting place rewards them with one of the finest vistas in town: to the west, Roquebrune-Cap-Martin juts out into the Mediterranean; to the east, opulent villas perch upon rugged cliffs, marking the Italian boundary. The colors were as brilliant as any painter’s palette, providing the perfect remedy for the gloom at home.

Numerous budget-friendly hotels are scattered across the newer section of Menton, including the recently updated Hotel de Londres (double rooms from €75), featuring rooms adorned with vibrant, floral designs. It is merely a 15-minute walk from the old town and market along the seafront – a splendid base for exploration.
Carolyn Boyd

San Vicente de la Barquera, Cantabria, Spain

With the melting snow from the Picos de Europa in the backdrop, lush green grass beneath my feet, and sparkling rivers along with the sunlit sea extending before me, San Vicente in spring serves as a remedy to winter lethargy. This medieval fishing village, resembling a work of art, is situated in Cantabria, approximately midway along Spain’s northern coastline and reachable via extensive, low bridges spanning the Escudo estuary. The actual sea lies hidden beyond the headland, housing white sand beaches, Merón and Oyambre, that attract surfers. Nestled in the estuary, the charming Playa Maza offers views of colorful boats along with easy access to seafood eateries.

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This entire area is encompassed within the Oyambre natural park, nearly 6,000 hectares (15,000 acres) of thick forests, sandy bays, dunes, and marshland, connected by meandering hilly roads (clogged with traffic in peak summer). A 20-minute drive to the west brings you to a coastal gorge and (after a descent) the scenic Playa del Pedreru. If venturing here post-Easter, proceed to Restaurante Bateau, enticingly positioned upriver in Bustio, for a lunch of razor clams or that day’s catch, but make sure to call ahead as hours of operation can differ.

Kayaks and bicycles are available for rental, alongside surfing classes in San Vicente; for overcast days, there’s a delightful bucket and spade-style castle to explore, along with Antoni Gaudí’s El Capricho villa situated in nearby Comillas, and the clear caves of one of Spain’s most remarkable cave networks, Soplao, located 30 minutes to the south.

Dining, however, stands out as the prime choice among the various shore activities. The village boasts what claims to be Spain’s oldest operational fishing cofradía (guild), where freshly-caught grouper, hake, scorpion fish, and sardines – in addition to bonito prepared as sorropotún, the region’s signature dish – are staples on all menus.

Numerous restaurants line Avenida de los Soportales, each offering tables sheltered beneath the ancient stone arches. A family-run establishment, Boga-Boga, located at the avenue’s end on Plaza Mayor del Fuero, serves an exquisite mixed grill of fish and langoustines. Also worth visiting is Ostería San Vicente, featuring a wooden-planked terrace with water views, as fresh oysters accompanied by a glass of albariño on a sunny evening is hard to surpass.

The Posada Rural Punta Liñera (doubles from €50) is located nearby. It is hospitable, offers excellent value, and its position in a field above a small cove is impeccable.
Sorrel Downer

Pomer Bay, Istria, Croatia

Perhaps it was the aroma of lavender, rosemary, and helichrysum drifting on the warm breeze. Or it could have been the independent hammock positioned before my safari tent that beckoned complete leisure from its occupant (hammocks are too tempting for me). Or the serene view of the pebble beach merely a few meters away where I now lay back. More likely, it was all these factors combined that lulled me into such a relaxed state that I felt nearly catatonic.

I found myself in one of Croatia’s most sought-after areas, yet here in Pomer Bay, located off Istria’s southern coast, I discovered a location that felt worlds apart from the sprawling campgrounds and water parks dominating much of the peninsula. True to its name, Arena One 99 Glamping embodies the concept of glamping – exclusively safari tents and lodges nestled beneath umbrella pines, complemented by complimentary bikes available to all guests (lodges starting at about €100 per night). It lays on one of the many irregular headlands stretching from the southern Istrian coast, most encircled by a pebble beach.

An ascending trail led me beneath the pines to the outdoor wellness realm – with five hot tubs and many sun loungers dispersed around tipi treatment tents, a yoga platform, and an A-frame wooden sauna boasting a glass wall that opens to forest vistas. Simply inhaling the scent of sun-warmed pine was sufficient to help me relax, not to mention enjoying a soak in the hot tub.

It required a bit of effort to depart from the site and venture out, yet some of Istria’s premier attractions are in close proximity. A footbridge connected to the Kamenjak peninsula and its nature reserve and secluded rocky coves. The vibrant resort town of Medulin lay just across the bay, and Pula – the largest city in Istria, home to its magnificent and unmissable Roman amphitheater – is less than a 20-minute drive away. Continuing on for another 20 minutes north leads to the village of Fažana, where I embarked on a ferry to the islands that comprise the Brijuni national park. There’s a variety of experiences on the main Veliki Brijun island – Roman and Byzantine ruins, a resort developed by a 19th-century Austrian industrialist, Paul Kupelwieser, who transformed it into an elite getaway, alongside Tito’s former summer residence and a safari park. If you desire, you can take a ride in Tito’s 1950s Cadillac for €700. Alternatively, you could simply recline on a hammock and watch the sunset over Pomer.
“`Bay.
Mary Novakovich

Porto Covo, Alentejo, Portugal

Nestled amid a series of idyllic praias (beaches) along the safeguarded Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano of the western coast, Porto Covo holds onto a distinct Portuguese character and pride that often gets overshadowed in the more ostentatious southern beach towns. With its low-rise, unpretentious design, this nearly bygone fishing village consists of little more than a dozen crisp, white-washed streets with blue accents leading towards the picturesque shoreline. It epitomizes the Alentejo – Portugal’s most extensive yet sparsely populated area – in its truest and most relaxed form.

Stroll in either direction and a collection of small bays washed by gentle, turquoise waves unfolds. Enclosed by slate-colored cliffs, this is some of the nation’s most exquisite coastline. My preference is Praia da Samoqueira, with its cream-colored sands dotted with shallow, silky tidal pools.

For the more daring, pack your hiking boots and swim attire to conquer a single-day segment of the Fishermen’s Trail – a linear, long-distance coastal trek that flourishes with wildflowers during springtime. Begin your journey at dawn for surreal lighting, ensuring a mid-afternoon bus will bring you back to Porto Covo’s Praia Hotel & Spa (ocean-view doubles from €169, breakfast included) in time for a muscle-soothing sauna.

Roughly interpreted as the “harbor of fishing nets”, Porto Covo’s primary draw has long been its seafood. Solitary fishermen gazing contemplatively at the formidable Atlantic from the cliffs are a frequent spectacle. Just offshore, Pessegueiro Island shares stories of past fishing eras through the remnants of a 16th-century fort and a Roman garum (fermented fish) processing site.

During summer, a €15 boat excursion will transport you on a two-hour exploration of the rugged, occasionally wind-swept isle. Alternatively, indulge in a leisurely experience at A Ilha restaurant, savoring the views of the islet while enjoying a refreshing beer alongside a €10 dish of choco frito (fried cuttlefish). For elevated petiscos (snack plates) paired with local vinho (a chilled glass of Vicentino rosé, grown in sandy soils to the south, is a perfect refresher on a hot day), head to the stylish Abranda wine bar situated on Largo Marquês de Pombal, Porto Covo’s central square inspired by Lisbon.

Summer brings life to the square as a continuous flow of vacationing Lisboetas appears (it’s a two-hour bus ride from the capital), reaching a climax during the late August’s festival honoring the patron saint, Festas de Porto Covo, when the square becomes a vibrant dance floor for couples swaying to accordion-infused folk melodies. Perched on a bench, surrounded by laughter, twirling couples and a salty breeze, you realize that Portugal’s essence is still thriving in the Alentejo.
Daniel James Clarke