In the Realm of the Swimming Polar Bear

15-08-2025 – 68°34’N 138°42’W

The Arctic Ocean has handled us kindly over the previous few days. The journey alongside the shore of northern Alaska is breathtaking in these circumstances. The mild over the Brooks Range requires extra adventures — a traverse or a descent by raft. So a lot nonetheless to do.

When passing Barter Island, or Kaktovik, we noticed a polar bear swimming towards the shore. My guess is it was a male — and an enormous one. No cubs close by, and an enormous head. The pack ice is a whole bunch of miles to the north; swimming distances like that is no small feat. This is why the bears are thought of marine mammals. Their thick insulating layer of blubber not solely protects them from the chilly however, much more importantly, retains the heat in. Complex power administration is the important thing to their survival in these harsh climates.

Our bear was surrounded by ringed seals. They knew very effectively the massive predator wouldn’t consider chasing them — he would stand no likelihood in open water. His time will come when the ice is again and the seals are of their dens or at their respiration holes. For now, the menu consists of scavenging alongside the seashore. Most hen eggs are passed by now. If he feels adventurous, a visit onto the tundra may yield a younger caribou. But his primary hope might be a simple meal within the type of a bowhead whale carcass left by the inhabitants of Kaktovik. Fifty bears have been counted within the space — an enormous quantity, contemplating the primary inhabitants alongside the North Alaskan summer season coast is estimated at round 1,500.

Early subsequent morning we arrived at Herschel Island, the location of early whaling within the area. At its peak, in late 1897, two thousand folks referred to as it house. In 1905, Amundsen wintered right here after passing by the Northwest Passage. In spring they set off on skis to Eagle, Alaska, to ship out phrase of their achievement.

The island is now a regional park, and someplace alongside the best way I didn’t handle to acquire the right allow. I made an effort to resolve it, however with out success. A disgrace — we had such a memorable go to right here in 2019, however issues seem to have modified since then.

We woke to a recent breeze this morning and put it to make use of — crusing, lastly! No want for a mainsail, only a reefed mizzen, a staysail, and a jib. We are on our strategy to Tuktoyaktuk, throughout the Mackenzie Delta. Pingo nation, and a spot to bunker diesel. Ice continues to be an issue within the Amundsen Gulf, however I wish to be there when it opens up.

First, some Arctic crusing — what a deal with!

All is effectively,

Gijs