How to spend an ideal weekend in Colmar, France

Alsace—now formally referred to as Grand Est—is a part of northeastern France, although it owes a lot of its cultural heritage to Germany. The neighboring nations have volleyed the area forwards and backwards between wars, treaties, and the redrawing of maps for a whole bunch of years. That mingling of binational influences involves life in Colmar.

Half-timbered homes line the canals, evoking the gingerbread manse of childhood storybooks. Cozy winstub (conventional, homestyle Alsatian eating places) serve choucroute garnie (an Alsatian recipe with sauerkraut and numerous pork elements) and baeckeoffe (meat and potato stew). And you’re by no means various minutes from a glass of riesling, whether or not that’s at a bottle store, bar, or native vineyard. 

It’s a metropolis with a walkable, small-town really feel and an out-sized quantity of appeal—particularly through the holidays, when the odor of vin chaud and cider wafts out of the bustling Christmas markets and decorations adorn the fairytale facades. Beyond the merriment of December, spring and summer season buzz with the thrill of blooming flowers, hotter climate, and seasonal occasions, such because the Alsace Wine Festival, which kicks off in late July. Fall is especially photogenic with the altering leaves and fewer crowds.  

(These under-the-radar French Riviera cities provide quiet appeal)

Day 1: Walking excursions and winstubs

Morning

Start the day with a espresso and a pastry at Omnino, an area micro-roastery and specialty espresso store chain with areas in Colmar, Strasbourg, and Mulhouse. Once caffeinated and sated, it’s time to discover Colmar Old, a postcard of cobblestone streets, colourful half-timbered homes adorned with flower packing containers, and scenic canals. The historic district is a well-preserved gem, the place guests can admire the distinctive structure, compact winstubs, and native outlets. While you can fortunately trot alongside for hours, peering round corners and down slim alleys, one of the simplest ways to be taught concerning the metropolis’s Franco-German identification, previous and current, is on a guided walking tour by means of La Petite Venise.

Afternoon

When starvation hits, it’s off to an genuine winstub. Quick etymology lesson: winstub comes from the German phrase weinstube—typical taverns the place winemakers offloaded their surplus and had a hearty meal. More than only a place to eat and drink—although, in fact, that’s the first objective—winstub are a comfy cornerstone of Alsatian tradition the place folks come collectively over tarte flambée and native wine. Wistub de la Petite Venise is a favourite for digging into traditional Alsatian dishes in a heat, cozy setting. Save room for Linzer tarte for dessert. 

With a full abdomen, it’s off to sip the area’s most prized product. Colmar is a key level on the Alsatian Wine Route. It’s surrounded by famend wine-producing areas, together with Grand Cru vineyards and family-run estates, together with Meyer-Fonné in Katzenthal the place care and craftsmanship are handed down by means of generations. Don’t really feel like driving? Walk over to Musée des vins d’Alsace à Colmar to be taught concerning the fascinating historical past of Alsace wine, meet native winegrowers, and, in fact, to pattern just a few glasses.

Evening

As the afternoon creeps towards night, journey again into city to sip your approach by means of a few native wine bars. Au Temps d’un Verre is a superb first cease as a result of the self-service dispensers permit budding oenophiles to pattern a wide range of wines obtainable in each full glasses and smaller tasting pours. Continue on to Sainte Joie’s fantastically restored stone-clad tasting room on Rue de Reiset. For an elevated twist on a conventional winstub, La Brasserie Historique, positioned within the Seventeenth-century La Maison des Têtes, is great. Meals begin with pretzels and finish with a cheese course, adopted by a decadent dessert (order the chocolate soufflé). In between, it’s a smorgasbord of foie gras, tarte flambée with black pudding and apples, and choucroute garnie​.

Day 2: Canal cruises, coated markets, and museums

Morning 

Start the day slowly. Wake up at your leisure and meander over to La Bonneterie. It’s the right spot for espresso and brunch fare (the pancakes with seasonal fruit are at all times a crowd pleaser) and in addition places you steps from the canals. Colmar is sometimes called “Little Venice” or the “Venice of France” as a result of its picturesque canals. A ship journey alongside the waterways ranks among the many most scenic and nice methods to see the town. After having grounded your understanding of the town’s historical past courtesy of a guided strolling tour, floating alongside the waterways supplies a unique vantage level to admire historical past on show. 

Afternoon

Food is such an necessary a part of Alsatian tradition. Travelers in quest of native merchandise will discover loads of meat, cheese, fruits, greens, and pretzels at Le Marché Couvert de Colmar, relationship again to 1865. Should your palate want a reprieve from heavier Alsatian meals, the market corridor additionally homes distributors promoting Vietnamese spring rolls, vegan burgers, vegetable-forward soup, and pizza.

Fans of artwork received’t need to cross up the possibility to go to Musée Unterlinden. Housed in a former Dominican convent relationship again to the thirteenth century, it’s one of many area’s most famous museums with a set spanning from the Middle Ages to modern works. It’s finest identified for the “Isenheim Altarpiece,” a masterpiece of Renaissance artwork by Nikolaus Haguenaur and Matthias Grünewald. The museum additionally options a powerful collection of Alsatian people artwork, sculptures, and work by distinguished artists corresponding to Picasso and Monet.

Next up: The Village of Hansi and its Museum, which celebrates the life and work of artist Jean-Jacques Waltz, nicknamed Hansi. Be certain to cease by the first-floor store (it’s unimaginable to overlook) to browse the collection of cookies, dwelling decor, Christmas ornaments, and tea towels. 

Evening

For a very distinctive meal, make a reservation at JY’S (brief for Jean-Yves Schillinger, the Michelin-starred chef on the helm). The fine-dining vacation spot on the Champ de Mars park provides diners an distinctive gourmand expertise that marries native elements, world flavors, and silver service. Opt for the six-course tasting menu; there’s additionally a supplemental wine pairing. Fancy a nightcap? Wander over to Le Major’L for a glass or two of native wine. If you’re questioning whether or not to order a post-dinner meat and cheese board, the reply is at all times sure. Take one final postcard-worthy stroll alongside the canals earlier than calling it an evening.  

(Where do French presidents unwind? This beautiful medieval fortress.)

Three nice day (or afternoon) journeys from Colmar

1. Riquewihr

If you haven’t had your fill of native vin, take into account a fast journey to Riquewihr, a 20-minute drive from Colmar. Called some of the lovely locations in France, the medieval village on the Alsace Wine Route is chock-full of storybook Alsatian character: Cobbled streets, pastel-hued half-timbered buildings, quaint wine outlets, and ringing church bells. In the verdant countryside simply outdoors of city are beloved Grand Cru vineyards, corresponding to Schoenenbourg, one of many best-known producers of riesling and gewürztraminer. 

2. Eguisheim

A brief drive or scenic bike journey from Colmar, Eguisheim, set on the Alsace Wine Route, is one other best vacation spot for oenophiles to expertise the wealthy heritage and flavors of Alsace. Start on the family-run Domaine Joseph Gruss & Fils for well-balanced white wines like gewürztraminer, riesling, pinot gris, and sylvaner, plus Cremant d’Alsace glowing. Go to Vignoble des 3 Terres – Domaine MANN for the terroir-driven pours, keep for the winery photograph ops (or vice versa.) Of course, the charms of this enchanting Alsatian village aren’t restricted to what’s within the bottle or glass; a stroll across the winding streets places vacationers head to head with colourful timber-framed facades and medieval church buildings. 

3. Strasbourg

Alsace is peppered with winsome small cities, worthy of a go to. Though that doesn’t imply it is best to skip its largest metropolis. Strasbourg, the regional capital, positioned a 25-minute direct prepare from Colmar, may not have the village-like qualities of a few of its neighbors, however it’s an unforgettable vacation spot for tradition and delicacies. A spot the place wine and beer are of equal import (a sippable reminder of its French and German affect), the picturesque La Petite France district brims with canal-side bars. The well-known Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Strasbourg, a logo of the town, instructions consideration with its ornate Gothic facade, constructed from pink sandstone from the Vosges Mountains. 

How to do it

There’s a direct TGV, or Train à Grande Vitesse, high-speed prepare from Paris to Colmar. It’s a two-and-a-half-hour journey from Paris Gare de l’Est to Colmar Place de la Gare, after which a brief stroll to the middle of city. Stay at La Maison des Têtes, a Relais & Châteaux lodge tucked inside a landmark Seventeenth-century constructing.

(A information to Strasbourg, Alsace’s culturally distinctive capital)