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The good, the unhealthy and the attractive: how the good photographer Richard Avedon captured ageing | Images

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Richard Avedon hated ageing – and lived inside it, laughed about it, seen it piteously, compassionately and, above all else (how might he not?), fatalistically. “I’m a geezer,” he would say when nonetheless a youngish man in his 60s. Throughout his profession, he made innumerable photographs of the results of ageing on the human face, and of its inevitability. For somebody first, and maybe on the earth’s creativeness nonetheless, most related to photographs of youth and sweetness, vitality and pleasure – the lady swirling her skirt, leaping over a puddle, enjoying pinball in Paris at midnight – there’s at the very least as a lot of his oeuvre (his “Irv” as he would self-mockingly say) dedicated to the outdated and wizened and smart.

His buddies at all times stated that he was the youngest individual within the room – however he didn’t wish to be the youngest individual within the room. It was, if not precisely an insult, a banality: what Dick wished was to be probably the most difficult individual within the room. He beloved combined feelings and contradiction inside a single picture, or sitter, greater than a clumping at both finish of the emotional spectrum. He beloved photographs just like the well-known Leonardo da Vinci that juxtaposes the profile of a phenomenal youth with a nutcracker-jawed outdated man. And so, in a phenomenal pairing of portraits of film administrators, at first we might even see the belligerent John Ford pitted towards the benevolent Jean Renoir. Ford’s curled lip and ostentatious, offended eye patch – an eye fixed patch is offended in its insistence on making you conscious of the lack of the attention – seen towards the light humanist look of Renoir, who appears at first like a sage French artist-saint of the identical form as Georges Braque.

But look once more, and Ford and Renoir are equally belligerent and benevolent, the pugilistic curl of their lips contradicting the beam of their eyes, and Renoir’s asymmetrical gaze is as calculating as it’s saintly. Ford could also be staring us down (very Americanly), however Renoir is sizing us up. The straightforward complementary cliches of humanism are betrayed or deepened: males don’t turn out to be film administrators by geniality alone. Ambition, craft and function are portrayed right here too.

Avedon was at conflict with the cliches of portraiture, together with the cliches of ageing, and something that appeared both merely pious or too picturesque offended him. Contradiction was the engine of his artwork. It was troublesome typically for his sitters to imagine that he was not belittling them or betraying them when he advised them that he valued what they had been hiding as a lot as what they had been proud to show. This was one motive Avedon struggled, and by no means fully succeeded, in taking over his personal ageing self – both making himself look too offended in a means that was fully uncharacteristic, or else too agency in a means that was too self-enclosed, maybe as a result of the very important contradiction in his personal character was as invisible to him as his topics’ had been to them. The magician might work magic on others however not himself.

The Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Waldorf Astoria, suite 28A, New York, 16 April 1957.

(The actual contradiction in his character – between the intense and austere pupil of human accomplishment he was and the bold, hypercompetitive drive inside New York he was typically accused of being – was invisible to him, as our actual contradictions are to all of us. A late-in-life documentary confirmed him moonily strolling the Montauk cliffs exterior his home, misplaced in thought – a spot in reality he by no means went, remaining inside on the phone with buddies, advising, consoling, strategising, delighting.)

The outdated women and men who knew be two issues without delay – or much more issues than that – had been his true topics, and his reward for in some way conveying their multitudinous selves in a radically compressed and seemingly laconic single picture stays breathtaking, distinctive within the historical past of portraiture. He is commonly at his finest with the worst: the antisemite Ezra Pound howls with the sheer ache of being, and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor turn out to be a frightened, wide-eyed Beckett couple. Even the folks he admired had been complimented by his eye for his or her asymmetries: Stravinsky seems at us with a levelled gaze that’s virtually stricken and calculating, each a person of surly genius and a person of calculation and ambition, a genius and a rug service provider.

WH Auden is a druid and oracle, face lined with care, and a silent comic out for an ungainly flat-footed stroll, a pilgrim on the Lower East Side in his bed room slippers within the snow. (“I woke up and it was snowing, and I wanted to see Auden within it,” Dick defined as soon as, and he phoned up the presumably bemused however prepared poet and requested to take his image.) His portrait of his outdated buddy, modern and collaborator Truman Capote exhibits him as way more clever than he selected to faux and eviler than he appreciated to confess. When it got here to the aged Dorothy Parker, Avedon didn’t admire her spirit much less for her face turning into much less “beautiful” and, registering precisely her decline, he italicised her braveness.

Toni Morrison, author, New York, 10 September 2003.

One portrait that I had lengthy ignored is that of Harold Arlen, the good songwriter who married blues and jazz to Broadway melody. He was a part of a category of males whom Avedon understood unconditionally; the artists who walked the damaging and unwelcoming wire between artwork and present enterprise. Arlen comes at us as astonishingly anxious, maybe useless – his hair appears darker than the age of his face permits – his face marked by the stigmata of hysteria that Avedon sought and prized as a lot as Leonardo beloved a half smile. He hardly seems the picture of a easy, suave, profitable songsmith of the self-willed Hoagy Carmichael type. But Avedon’s portrait shares a deeper fact within the type of a extra contradictory view.

It’s for that motive that, pressed to the wall to decide on his personal biggest portrait, Avedon virtually actually would have chosen that of Oscar Levant. He admired him virtually unconditionally, as a wit and musician and member of the 20s Gershwin circle – for Dick, the very best social circle he might think about, Jewish in its heat however aristocratic in its self-presentation. Levant was an amazing songwriter (Blame It on My Youth) and in his day probably the most admired exponent of Gershwin’s live performance music on stage. Levant had betrayed his personal expertise with medicine and dissipation – but his gleam and loopy ecstasy within the midst of his personal damage appeared to Avedon the picture, not solely of the place we’re all more likely to go, however of the place we’d all wish to be.

What worse than going toothless and to seed in Beverly Hills? But what higher than being frankly loopy in a single’s personal finest bathrobe? The descent of genius into insanity, and the elevation of desperation right into a type of ecstasy – each of those had been Avedon’s benchmarks, his obsessive fascinations. Avedon’s Levant is a picture of doomed self-degradation within the grip of dependancy; delighted self-celebration even within the face of despair. Both are there, and each are true.

Jacob Israel Avedon, father of Richard, Sarasota, Florida, 25 August 1973.

Of all of Avedon’s footage of ageing, the sequence he did of his father was closest to his coronary heart and thoughts, and nonetheless in some ways probably the most troublesome for us to assimilate and settle for. It is a brutal examine of an outdated man dying, from first anxious intimations of mortality to go bowed within the indignity of a hospital robe. It is troublesome to imagine – it was troublesome for his father, who noticed the primary ones at the very least, to imagine – that they had been in any sense beneficent or empathetic, and even admiring. Avedon insisted that they had been, and in a single memorable evening, he tried to elucidate to me why. His father had assumed a facade his complete life: Smilin’ Jack Avedon, an entrepreneur, a household man, like each Jewish man of that technology, as Philip Roth wrote as soon as, serving his household in a self-annihilating means. The facade was not what was admirable about his father, or human – it was the frailty, the doubt that the facade was overlaying.

“There was a picture of you on the piano that I saw every day when I was growing up,” Avedon wrote. “It was by the Bachrach studio and heavily retouched, and we all used to call it ‘Smilin’ Jack Avedon’ – it was a family joke, because it was a photograph of a man we never saw, and of a man I never knew. When you pose for a photograph, it’s behind a smile that isn’t yours. You are angry and hungry and alive. What I value in you is that intensity. I want to make portraits as intense as people.”

An existentialist by generational conviction, Avedon was a humanist by intuition – somebody who believed that being alive is the one aware situation within the cosmos, and that what we’re as folks is all there’s to know. No afterlife, no eternity, not even a lot probability of the immortality of repute – and in any case, what good is the immortality of repute in case you are not there to expertise it? Still, there’s life …

Richard Avedon, photographer, New York, 31 May 2002.

An inexpensive case has been made that the famous Leonardo double profile in reality exhibits one man – the artist himself – imagined at two extremes of existence, youthful magnificence and older senescence, not a confrontation of two varieties however the metamorphosis of a single being. The blurred line dividing magnificence and ugliness is its topic, the 2 bookend circumstances suggesting the spectrum between. Pictures of the human situation? Avedon’s portraits of the aged are extra like commentary on the conditional nature of being human; we’re all within the course of of creating ourselves, hiding ourselves, making an attempt to be extra lovely and sage – like these different folks, of their portraits – whereas pressured to stay ourselves.

Age creeps up on us genially from behind, a smiler with a knife, then stabs us within the again. All we will do is dance. And if the dying throes look very very like probably the most ecstatic steps? Well, that’s life. Even when leaving the stage, we’re nonetheless upon it. Even dying, we’re nonetheless in play.

This is an edited extract from the introduction by Adam Gopnik to Richard Avedon Immortal: Portraits of Aging, 1951-2004. Photographs by Richard Avedon, edited by Paul Roth, with contributions from Vince Aletti and Gaëlle Morel (Phaidon, £59.95)


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