Avenue-Fashion Photographer Kuba Dąbrowski Has a Solo Present in Warsaw

Amid a sea of street-style photographs, these by Kuba Dąbrowski stand out as a result of he all the time sees the larger image, yielding extra depth, empathy, erudite references — and dollops of humor.

So says his photographer buddy Piotr Niepsuj, curator of “Life on Assignment,” an exhibition devoted to Dąbrowski that opened Wednesday on the Fort Institute of Photography, or IFF, in Warsaw, Poland.

“He really knows what he’s photographing,” Niepsuj mentioned. “He’s always documenting.”

Niepsuj sifted via hundreds of photos for the present, selecting the crème de la crème of his They Are Wearing photographs for WWD, for which he’s labored for 15 years; portraits of such well-known vogue folks as Paul Smith and Anna Wintour, and likewise unglamorous photos of his time away from catwalks, in sock-strewn Airbnbs, common cafés and public transport.

In addition to about 80 framed photos, together with one of many late, nice Bill Cunningham, a pioneer of street-style images who began his profession at WWD, Niepsuj additionally assembled three expansive temper boards — leaned towards the wall as they’re backstage at vogue exhibits — to sneak in additional of Dąbrowski’s visible magic.

“Sincere,” “humane” and “democratic” have been phrases Niepsuj lobbed regularly to explain the Polish photographer’s work, knowledgeable by his schooling in sociology, his vogue tradition, his love of sport and music, and his curiosity about all the things.

“He does proper reportage,” Niepsuj mentioned. “What I like about Kuba’s pictures is that they are honest. They are not for fireworks.”

Indeed, Dąbrowski prefers to work with a wide-angle lens, taking within the setting round his topics, whether or not it’s chic or messy, and coaching it on fashions, celebrities, editors and influencers — together with the service employees, civilians and vacationers who additionally get caught up the melee round vogue weeks in Milan and Paris.

“He gives dignity to everyone,” Niepsuj mentioned. “He’s also interested in everyday life.”

That consists of his personal, which is why he consists of photos of a stolen FaceTime name along with his son, his buddies scarfing pizza, and some unconventional selfies, principally his shadow thrown on the bottom, his slender body, bucket hat and dangling cameras sufficient signifiers to comprehend it’s Kuba.

Niepsuj mentioned Dąbrowski’s data of photograph historical past is huge sufficient that he notices when what he’s captured resembles the work of Saul Leiter, William Eggleston or Wolfgang Tillmans.

In the exhibition, there’s a wink to acclaimed Czech photographer Josef Koudelka, as soon as caught sleeping on the ground of Magnum’s places of work. Dąbrowski is pictured taking a catnap in a sleeping bag in some characterless photograph studio.

“It’s about portraying the world that fashion-week photographers live,” Dąbrowski mentioned in an interview, summing it up as “the backstage of the backstage.”

He was new to vogue when WWD market editor Laurent Folcher gave him a trenchant transient for its century-old They Are Wearing franchise: midway between The Sartorialist and Martin Parr.

“When he said that, I thought, ‘OK, I’m the right person, and I’m providing my images to the right publication if they’re using those references,” he associated.

And then he raised the bar: Dąbrowski mentioned he all the time takes photographs with an eventual on-line gallery in his thoughts — and what individuals dwelling 30 to 40 years from now may decrypt in regards to the occasions he’s documenting.

The Berlin-based photographer mentioned he relishes the Zen state he reaches throughout vogue week, in a position to dedicate his complete consideration to creating and enhancing photos.

Favorite assignments for WWD have included capturing Louis Vuitton fashions on the Louvre, wandering via the shuttered museum alone as if in a dream; documenting Daniel Roseberry as he creates high fashion for Schiaparelli, a key shopper of his, and capturing portraits of Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten and Yohji Yamamoto for WWD.

“It’s amazing to be in the presence of greatness,” he mentioned. “I think my job is to photograph the whole scene.”

Niepsuj mentioned Dąbrowski exemplifies the pleasure of taking photos for oneself — to not look sizzling on Instagram or impress followers.

“Imagine walking 20 kilometers a day [during Paris Fashion Week] and then going back to your Airbnb, or meeting a friend and still taking pictures,” he marveled. “It means you love it.”

“Life on Assignment” runs till June 14 at IFF, in tandem with “Family Trilogy” by Christopher Anderson and Marion Durand.