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Although he was famously shy, it’s outstanding how typically the designer Yves Saint Laurent had his image taken. In 1957, when he was newly appointed head of Dior at simply 21 years previous, Saint Laurent sat for Irving Penn in what would develop into the primary of numerous unforgettable images of the French vogue icon. When he based his personal label with Pierre Bergé in 1961, the duo made the extraordinary determination to place Saint Laurent himself on the heart of the model’s picture, a uncommon transfer on the time. Through all of it, the digicam was a continuing presence, as if he knew posterity was watching.
A brand new exhibition celebrates Saint Laurent’s visionary use of images and imagery to cement his model’s legacy. On view from June 11 to September 28, 2026, “Yves Saint Laurent and Photography” on the International Center of Photography in New York City takes guests into the expansive visible universe of a designer whose work continues to form how vogue is perceived at the moment. Organized with the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris and the Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent, the present unfolds in two elements: the primary dedicated to emblematic pictures of Saint Laurent and his clothes by photographers similar to Richard Avedon, Cecil Beaton, Irving Penn, and Annie Leibovitz; whereas the second is a wunderkammer of contact sheets, journal pages, promoting layouts, and invites to his exhibits, amounting to some 300 images and objects.
“What’s most exciting about the show is that it functions as a kind of history of photography in its own right—a greatest-hits of image-making related to fashion,” says Simon Baker, curator of the present with Nastasia Alberti and Clémentine Cuinet. “Saint Laurent chose to work with the best practitioners at each moment, and he stayed friends with them. He worked with Penn for more than 30 years and Helmut Newton was a presence throughout almost his entire career. He also kept pace with what was emerging, so when Paolo Roversi and Juergen Teller began to rise as the defining photographers of their moment, he worked with them too.”
A bit of the exhibition is dedicated to Saint Laurent’s work with vogue magazines, together with unique pages and a collection of Polaroids taken for styling functions. Imagery from vogue exhibits seem as effectively, documenting backstage and front-row moments alike.
“This kind of behind-the-scenes documentation was genuinely unusual for the time,” Baker says. “It’s fairly normal now, but to have someone doing that with real artistic intention in the 1960s—when Saint Laurent was just launching his own house, getting photographed in fitting rooms in beautiful black and white, in images that were not merely documentary but genuinely beguiling—that was something else entirely.”
Saint Laurent’s expansive curiosity within the artwork world can also be evident within the exhibition. Among the highlights are pictures from collections wherein he paid tribute to artists similar to Piet Mondrian and Pablo Picasso, translating their visible languages into trendy clothes. Also on view is Andy Warhol’s 1972 portrait collection of Saint Laurent, alongside {a photograph} of Warhol sporting the designer’s garments.
Although Saint Laurent is taken into account the quintessential Parisian designer, New York performed a crucial function in his profession. “Avedon and Penn, the two biggest names in fashion photography at the time, whom Saint Laurent worked with often, were both based in New York,” Baker says. Attuned to its native viewers, the ICP present spotlights his decades-long relationship with town by way of pictures of occasions and vogue exhibits at landmarks like Battery Park and Liberty Island. In {a photograph} taken by Henri Dauman in 1958, months after his Dior appointment and years earlier than the launch of his personal label, Saint Laurent stands on Seventh Avenue, surrounded by the whirling metropolis. In nice distinction, {a photograph} by Roxane Lowit from the early Eighties exhibits him holding a Statue of Liberty like a trophy, with a radiant, broad smile.
Below, check out a preview of the present.
Irving Penn, Yves Saint Laurent, Paris, 1957.
© The Irving Penn Foundation
Henri Dauman, Yves Saint Laurent on seventh Avenue, New York, October 1958.
© Henri Dauman Photo Archive, LLC / DaumanFootage.com © All rights reserved
Harry Meerson, Yves Saint Laurent, 1966.
© Harry Meerson
Cocktail gown from the autumn 1965 high fashion assortment, often known as the “Tribute to Piet Mondrian.” Published in ELLE, September 1965.
© Peter Knapp / ELLE France © Yves Saint Laurent © Jeanne Lanvin-Castillo
Models from the spring 1966 high fashion assortment. Published in Harper’s Bazaar, March 1966.
© James Moore © Yves Saint Laurent
The welcome pier for visitors invited to the launch celebration for Champagne fragrance, Battery Park, New York, September 12, 1994.
© All rights reserved © Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent
Pantsuit worn by Vibeke Knudsen, fall 1975 high fashion assortment. Published in Vogue Paris, September 1975.
© Helmut Newton Foundation, courtesy Helmut Newton Foundation and Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent
Published in LIFE journal, September 1966.
© All rights reserved © Jean-Claude Sauer
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