Summer season on the Slovenian Riviera | Slovenia holidays

I’m using a salt-coloured horse by means of the Dragonja valley, deep within the inexperienced hills of Slovenian Istria. Electric-blue dragonflies zip over the river as we gallop previous olive timber and vineyards. The panorama rises steeply in a sequence of grassy terraces, and on the prime of the hill we rein within the sweating horses to soak up the view. Far beneath, the massive grids of solinas (salt pans), glittery and light-blue within the early morning gentle, look unusual and in some way elegant in opposition to the wild, expansive sea past.

The Istrian peninsula is the most important within the Adriatic Sea, with 90% of it in Croatia and smaller parts in Slovenia and Italy. I’ve come to discover the Slovenian part. At simply 29 miles (47km), the nation’s shoreline is likely one of the shortest in Europe, from the Italian metropolis of Trieste right down to the Croatian border, nevertheless it boasts vibrant seaside cities, hilltop villages and an rising gastronomy scene.

We journey again to Kmetija Medljan, the farm the place I’m staying, in time for breakfast – served at lengthy communal tables underneath the shade of a mulberry tree – with freshly laid eggs, strawberries from the backyard and home made bread. The Kodarin household purchased the land in the Nineteen Eighties and at present the farm is run by Marina, Marko and their son Tilen. There are easy rooms close to the stables, rustic flats in the previous farmhouse and plans to construct treehouses sooner or later. For now, it feels a lot because it will need to have executed 250 years in the past. House martins flit by means of the air searching bugs, chickens cluck within the orchard, and horses graze among the many olive timber. The coast is only a 10-minute drive away, however the peace of the Istrian hills is what visitors come for – together with Marina’s scrumptious dwelling cooking (her tackle conventional Slovenian noodle soup is a favorite).

Not removed from the farm is the Saltworks Museum, the place I be taught extra concerning the Sečovlje salt pans I glimpsed from the hillside. Housed in three former salt-workers’ homes, the museum has interactive shows and deserted pans you possibly can go to. Salt continues to be harvested by hand within the working a part of the salt pans, historian Prof Flavio Bonin explains as we stroll round massive crystallisation basins the place sea water as soon as ran by means of a sequence of shallow swimming pools with the salt turning into more and more concentrated. Istrian salt is prized for its high quality and whiteness, the solni cvet, or salt flower, having a fragile, barely candy style.

There’s a stark magnificence to this empty panorama, and the solinas are additionally an necessary haven for wildlife. A black-winged stilt with vivid orange legs stalks slowly by means of the pans seeking lunch, and snow-white egrets stand up from the marshlands into the azure sky as I watch.

My subsequent cease is medieval Piran, a little approach up the coast in the direction of Italy, maybe probably the most stunning of Slovenia’s seaside cities. The Venetian Republic dominated Istria for 5 centuries and took one-fifth of the salt produced in tax, whereas a seventh went to Piran, which turned rich consequently. The Venetian affect is all over the place, from the elegant painted homes in shades of lemon, orange and coral, to the Italian-inspired culinary scene. Rostelin is thought for its handmade pasta, although for me a dish of delicate uncooked scallops, served with skinny slices of black truffle, steals the present.

I’m staying in Benečanka Casa Veneziana in Tartini Square, which is the best instance of Venetian gothic structure within the city. Legend has it that, within the fifteenth century, a Venetian service provider fell in love with a stunning woman from Piran and constructed her the prettiest home within the metropolis. But their relationship scandalised the city’s gossips, since he had a household again in Venice. So he defiantly had the inscription Lasa pur dir (allow them to discuss) engraved on the entrance wall.

The water surrounding Piran is a protected marine space, and within the afternoon I’m going scuba diving, hoping to spot sea horses, which reside within the sea grass meadows near shore. The shallow reef runs near the promenade, so I can stroll straight into the water with my teacher. The sea horses show elusive, however there is loads of different marine life, together with a jaunty, furry crab carrying a vivid orange marine sponge as a cap. There are not any sandy seashores right here, however folks swim from the rocky waterfront, which has ladders down into the water.

From Piran, it’s a straightforward stroll alongside the coastal path to Izola, 7 miles to the east. The path cuts by means of the Strunjan landscape park and passes considered one of Slovenia’s loveliest seashores, Moon Bay. I cease for lunch on the breezy terrace of the Belvedere hotel. Located on the prime of a hill, it presents wonderful seafood and sweeping views to Trieste.

Izola manages to be laid-back and vibrant on the identical time. From my base on the supremely snug DeGrassi hotel, I stroll to Ljubljanska Ulica, a road bursting with artists’ workshops, pink and peach homes and vibrant bunting. Music is taking part in, previous males drink espresso and youngsters play in the road.

Along from here’s a tiny museum, the place cultural heritage professional Gregor Benčina tells me the historical past of the place. Izola was initially a poor fishing village. “Piran was our mortal enemy,” Gregor says solemnly. “In medieval times, there was a law that when an Izolan died, they could leave their wealth to anyone local or international, but it was forbidden to leave anything to people from Piran.”

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The subsequent day, native information Matic Horvat takes me on an ebike tour of the encompassing countryside. We zip effortlessly by means of the Šavrini hills, planted with vines, in addition to olive, cherry, fig and almond timber, and swoop down the countless descent from Gažon to Koper, which makes me whoop like a baby. In the port metropolis, we cease for a zingy orange and ginger ice-cream, earlier than a leisurely return to Izola.

As the warmth of the afternoon cools into a kind of lengthy, languid evenings, I cease by Manzioli wine bar, on the primary sq., for an aperitivo of recent rosé from native winemaker Zaro. The bar’s proprietor, Marko, explains that his household’s vineyards are situated very near the water and the salt informs the minerality, which provides this wine its depth of flavour. Across the sq., Bujol is considered one of celebrity Slovene chef Ana Roš’s favorite locations to eat on the coast, and I feast on plump mussels and fritto misto (blended fry) with a killer home made tabasco sauce.

The subsequent day, youngsters belt out punk rock from the bandstand, and Istrian meals producers set out their wares on the Pier of Tastes food market, which is held month-to-month from April to October (besides in July and August).

Keen to be taught extra concerning the native produce and award-winning wines, I be a part of Nina Golob, from the vacationer board, to go to some artisan producers in close by villages (she’s launching her personal excursions quickly). Tilen Praprotnik is devoted to reviving indigenous grape varieties and produces a rare malvasia wine, whereas at Korenika & Moškon we style totally different types of olive oil, together with belica, which has a robust kick. We end up at Gostilna Korte, the place Lejla, the proprietor, brings out dish after dish of delights, together with steak served with a wild asparagus sauce that has me virtually licking the plate.

On my last morning in Izola, I wake early. The sea is heat as I slip in and swim previous the lighthouse because the solar rises greater. Summertime on the Slovenian Riviera – it is probably not large, nevertheless it hits the spot for a special type of seaside break.

The journey was supplied by the Slovenia tourist board, Visit Izola and Portorož & Piran. Kmetija Medljan has flats sleeping as much as 4 from €115 B&B (3 nights minimal); Benečanka Casa Veneziana in Piran has rooms from €165, together with breakfast at a cafe; DeGrassi hotel in Izola has rooms from €130 B&B (2 nights minimal)

Laura Coffey’s e-book, Enchanted Islands: Travels Through Myth & Magic, Love & Loss, is revealed by Summersdale at £10.99. To assist the Guardian, order your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery fees might apply