Journey: Look past Santiago de Compostela to find Galicia

By Dennis Lennox, CP Contributor Sunday, July 26, 2026

Yesterday, many Christians noticed the Feast of St. James. The day commemorates James the Greater, certainly one of Christ’s 12 apostles.

For greater than a millennium, believers have journeyed to Santiago de Compostela, the place custom holds that the apostle both preached in Spain earlier than his martyrdom or that his relics have been later translated there. Whatever one’s view of the historicity of these traditions, there’s something profoundly shifting about following within the footsteps of generations of devoted pilgrims.

The Way of St. James (or, in Spanish, Camino de Santiago) has surged in reputation lately. In 2025, a report 530,987 pilgrims accomplished sufficient of the path to obtain the standard certificates of completion. Though lengthy related to Roman Catholicism, an rising variety of Protestants are endeavor the pilgrimage as properly.

It has additionally change into one thing of an trade. While many pilgrims nonetheless carry every part they personal in a backpack and keep in easy hostels, others go for a decidedly extra snug expertise. Luxury tour operators now promote packages costing $10,000 or extra, full with five-star motels, connoisseur meals, baggage transfers and assist automobiles that comply with walkers from village to village.

Then once more, this isn’t a contemporary phenomenon. Medieval pilgrimage had its personal luxurious market. The rich may pay another person to make the journey on their behalf and nonetheless obtain an indulgence. It appears not a lot has modified over the previous thousand years.

Earlier this summer season, I spent a number of days in Galicia, the area surrounding Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain.

Santiago is dominated by its nice cathedral, the Metropolitan Archcathedral Basilica of Santiago de Compostela. Its hovering inside leaves an unforgettable impression, particularly when you think about the numerous believers who’ve worshiped there over the centuries.

The cathedral can be residence to certainly one of Christianity’s most outstanding liturgical spectacles: the large swinging thurible or censer referred to as the Botafumeiro. Weighing roughly 116 kilos and hovering some 65 toes via the air, it’s swung by a workforce of attendants on choose holy days every year, together with the patronal feast each July 25.

According to common custom, the swinging censer originated in the course of the Middle Ages, when clerics burned huge portions of incense all through the cathedral to reduce the terrible scent of arriving pilgrims.

Yet I wouldn’t make Santiago de Compostela the centerpiece of a return go to.

Part of that’s sensible. During my go to, the town felt overwhelmed by vacationers. Some had genuinely accomplished the pilgrimage after strolling a whole bunch of miles throughout Spain, France or Portugal. They had earned their arrival.

Many others, nevertheless, have been merely vacationers checking one other well-known vacation spot off their listing. The end result was a metropolis that usually felt crowded to the purpose of distraction.

There was one other disappointment. Santiago de Compostela’s municipal leaders are unabashedly anti-Israel to the purpose of antisemitism. That merely can’t be ignored. Fortunately, there may be a lot to see and do all through the remainder of Galicia. Also, the regional authorities doesn’t share the identical politics.

Leave Santiago de Compostela behind, hire a automobile, and the crowds disappear shortly. Galicia feels comparatively neglected, a minimum of in comparison with different components of Spain the place overtourism has change into a major problem.

You can drive from vineyards to medieval monasteries in a single afternoon with out ever feeling rushed.

The meals and wine scene alone justifies the journey.

Given its location, the delicacies revolves across the sea. Think catch of the day, octopus and scallops. As elsewhere in Spain, dinner not often begins earlier than 9 p.m. Being accustomed to consuming at 6 or 7 o’clock, I discovered it took just a little getting used to.

The area consists of two notable wine appellations. Forget the better-known Spanish reds of Rioja; white wines are king right here. Along the coast, Rias Baixas produces crisp, mineral-driven albarino wines that pair fantastically with seafood. Inland, Ribeira Sacra is residence to vineyards clinging to steep slopes overlooking the Mino and Sil rivers. Besides albarino, the opposite signature grape is godello. Depending on the producer and elegance, wines can resemble dry Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc.

One of the perfect methods to find the actual Galicia is by designing a highway journey round Spain’s paradors — historic monasteries, castles and palaces which have been transformed by the federal government into upscale motels.

Begin with one or two nights on the Parador de Santiago de Compostela. Dating to 1499, when it was based as lodging for pilgrims, the five-star resort stands adjoining to the cathedral overlooking Workshop Square. Visit the cathedral — the perfect time is in the course of the each day mass at 7:30 a.m. — and wander the medieval streets earlier than the crowds arrive.

Then level the automobile south towards the four-star Parador de Santo Estevo.

Nestled within the coronary heart of the Ribeira Sacra wine appellation, the previous monastery provides a very totally different expertise. Spend a day or two touring wineries, driving scenic roads and visiting historic church buildings, together with the Romanesque church buildings of St. Pelagius of Diomondi and St. Stephen of Ribas de Minho.

Continue to Tui. Overlooking the Minho River, which kinds the border with Portugal, the Twelfth-century Cathedral of St. Mary dominates the cityscape. Its crenelated partitions and defensive look replicate centuries of battle. Crowds listed here are noticeably thinner than Santiago de Compostela.

Finish the journey on the Parador de Baiona. Occupying a fantastically preserved medieval fortress perched above the ocean, the four-star resort combines centuries of historical past with sweeping views. It was my favourite resort of all the journey.

Baiona itself occupies an essential place in historical past. In March 1493, the Pinta arrived in its harbor carrying the primary information that Christopher Columbus had reached the New World. The city proudly commemorates the second it grew to become the primary place in Europe to be taught of this nice discovery.

If you go

United provides a seasonal thrice-weekly nonstop flight between its hub at Newark Liberty International Airport and Santiago de Compostela. Meanwhile, Delta associate KLM flies seasonally from Amsterdam, making Galicia reachable from many U.S. airports with only one or two connections.

Unfortunately, it isn’t unusual for historic church buildings within the Galician countryside to be locked, which might make visiting them a problem. You might wish to take into account hiring a information who can coordinate with keyholders to rearrange entry.

Pilgrims and different teams visiting the Metropolitan Archcathedral Basilica of Santiago de Compostela can pay about $500 to have the Botafumeiro swung outdoors its recurrently scheduled feast days. In addition to the common providers, an English-language mass is well known each day besides Wednesdays at 10:30 a.m.

Protestant worship providers are supplied by the Anglican Pilgrim Centre within the Church of St. Felix of Solovio. Dating to 997, it’s believed to be the oldest church in Santiago de Compostela. During my go to, nevertheless, the church by no means opened, and the scheduled 4 p.m. weekday service wasn’t held. The Anglicans additionally function the aptly named Anglican Pilgrim House, a small bed-and-breakfast.

In the Ribeira Sacra appellation, go to Via Romana if just for its unimaginable views. In Rias Baixas, the tasting experiences at Granbazan, Mar de Frades and Terras Gauda are all extremely really helpful.

Dennis Lennox writes a journey column for The Christian Post.