Ami

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Ah, Paris. When you catch it not in une mauvaise humeur, it truly is high. Tonight we have been on the high of Paris, within the grounds of La basilique du Sacré-Cœur with the town laid out under, gleaming within the sunny nightfall like some huge thriving platter of life. At the underside of the steep flight of stairs that lead as much as the church was a crowd of screaming style followers, pushed wild on the sight of Naomi Campbell.

Up on excessive Alexandre Mattiussi was exhibiting an Ami assortment that leaned lovingly into its signature tropes of modernized Parisian cool. Catherine Deneuve and Carla Bruni have been within the viewers alongside Campbell. Extraordinarily, Audrey Tautou—Sacré-Cœur’s Amelie herself—was lured out of her lengthy public retreat to open the present. Other key forged members included Liya Kebede, Karen Elson, Precious Lee, Cara Delevingne, and Kristen McMenamy. We have been in menswear week, sure, however hey. This was an influence play in addition to a Paris play.

Ever since funds has allowed, Ami exhibits have been elaborate—keep in mind the rooftop present, or the wheatfield present—however final yr Mattiussi took a clearly very vital funding from Sequoia Capital that ratcheted up the manufacturing values a number of ranges tonight. “They’re young, cool, easy, and they let me do whatever I want,” he mentioned: “they are super supportive.” This was mirrored within the casting, the situation, and the after-party—which felt prefer it was going to show right into a rager as your correspondent regretfully bowed out—but additionally, most crucially of all, within the garments.

Ami was an solely menswear label from its founding in 2011 till as just lately as 2019, when it expanded into womenswear. This night Mattiussi expanded his menswear modus operandi—the presentation of rigorously idealized observational style by way of appears and items based mostly on actual Parisian sorts and stereotypes however then utilized with a cleverly restrained patina of enhancement—utterly comprehensively to womenswear. There was a formidable array of luggage, a brand new class, and footwear all intricately detailed with the brand that Mattiussi first doodled as a pupil. Multiple dialects of bourgeois archetype—together with some apparently modeled on French editors of Vogue—have been gently mashed collectively to create a beguilingly approachable and good-natured French wardrobe.

In menswear the work was very per Ami’s unique mannequin of manufacturing extremely unpretentious—pleasant, actually—appears that very gently blurred generational gown codes (as they have been again in 2011). Mattiussi mentioned: “It is still about sharing the values of love, friendship, fraternity, and kindness. And not trying too hard. This is what is natural for me as a person and designer. And it is a postcard again—the latest episode of Ami in Paris.” It left you in une bonne humeur.


This web page was created programmatically, to learn the article in its unique location you possibly can go to the hyperlink bellow:
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-menswear/ami
and if you wish to take away this text from our website please contact us

Luke Leitch

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