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Everything commenced with a few glasses of wine and a brief conversation about our next girls’ getaway. Coincidentally, we were enjoying a Spanish red wine blend, which prompted my friend Wendy to recall her past living in Spain during her university years and express her desire to revisit. That single thought ignited the plan — Spain, here we go!
With Wendy as our tour guide, we began mapping out our itinerary for Spain. Our primary destination would be the southern coastline, flying to and from Madrid. We agreed on booking VRBO accommodations in Seville and Malaga, along with a hotel in Madrid.
The subsequent significant choice was whether to rent a car or organize our journey via train. Spain boasts an outstanding train network; both high-speed and regional services could take us to all our locations. Nevertheless, we chose to rent a car; our plan was to embark on a 5-hour drive to Seville right after landing at the airport. We thought the car would grant us the freedom to come and go at our convenience.
Day Two (following an overnight flight)
We arrived in the morning, located our rental car, and set off.
We reached Seville just prior to nightfall; the directions to our lodging were vague at best. Our accommodation included a garage for the car, which could only be accessed from a one-way street. Inputting the actual address into the GPS led us to a street far too narrow for vehicle passage (to clarify, all roads in Seville’s Old Town are too narrow for vehicles). At one point, we found ourselves lost in the cramped streets of Old Town while searching for our rental. It was during this chaos that Wendy reminded us she had noted from the beginning she did not wish to drive in Seville, while my sister took on the challenge, albeit unaware of the impending ordeal.
It turned into a series of mishaps as we navigated the narrow alleys. As we got nearer, Wendy and I leapt out of the vehicle before we were unable to open the doors due to the close proximity to the buildings. Wendy (the only member of our group fluent in Spanish from her college days) sought directions, while I guided my sister on how to steer right or left to avoid colliding with the walls (thankfully, we had opted for the additional insurance on the car). I adopted a posture akin to a flamenco dancer, arms raised overhead, gesturing right and left with tiny movements while pedestrians lined the walls, looking at us in wide-eyed disbelief, hoping we wouldn’t crash into them. Their expressions seemed to scream, “clueless tourists.”
Ultimately, we never made it to our garage. Instead, we proceeded to the train station and parked the vehicle there.
That night, my sister introduced us to the Fun Scale, which categorized experiences into three types. Type I: enjoyable throughout, with eagerness to repeat it. Type II: not enjoyable while engaged, but gratitude for the experience afterward. Type III: entirely unenjoyable, and one should never choose to repeat it. Our driving endeavor through Seville classified as Type III, yet it transformed into a fantastic anecdote later. We decided to evaluate the trip based on this Fun Scale.
Day Three
Seville, the capital of Andalusia, ranks as Spain’s fourth largest city and is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, featuring the Alcazar Palace and the Cathedral. Our exploration in Seville commenced with a walking tour to grasp the city’s overall essence. We visited the Alcazar, the royal palace of Seville (still active), which was constructed over 3000 years ago. This complex stands as the oldest of its type in Europe, containing numerous palaces and gardens representing various periods and cultural influences. Its magnificence is evident in the unique architectural style that has evolved over the centuries. Initially a Muslim fortress, it served to protect the city. This site has also been a filming location for movies such as Lawrence of Arabia and Game of Thrones. An interesting tidbit: In examining paintings of women from the 16th century, one often notes a prominent forehead, as women would shave theirs to signify they had larger brains — a curiosity I had long held, and now I understand.
The Cathedral of Seville holds the title of the largest Gothic Cathedral globally. Once a mosque, it was seized by Christians in 1248. The original mosque, established in the late 1100s, was the primary mosque for the city. Its prayer hall consisted of seventeen aisles directed southward. The Christians altered the religious orientation, sealing off exits and archways and creating family worship chapels alongside stained-glass windows. The tomb of Christopher Columbus is located within the Cathedral.
The Giralda, the bell tower of Seville Cathedral, represents Spain’s most renowned example of Moorish architecture, erected in the 9th century as a minaret. In the 14th century, Christians modified it to serve as a bell tower; during the 16th century, the structure was revamped with a Renaissance design featuring a cross and bells. To ascend to the tower’s pinnacle (97 meters), one must navigate 34 ramps (plus a few stairs at the top). The ramps were designed for horses to ride up the tower. The vistas at the summit are breathtaking and well worth the trek (there are lookout spots for breaks along the route).
Day Four
We left the car happily settled (at the train station) and boarded the train to Jerez. Jerez (termed Sherry in Spanish) produces both domestic and exported Sherry and is home to the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art. We commenced our journey with a tour of the Royal Andalusian School’s grounds and its museum.
This institution, established in the 18th century, emphasizes performance, a ballet executed by horses and riders. The equines at the academy are solely purebred Spanish and Lusitano horses. The school features a palace, a performance venue, 60 stables for horses, a veterinary facility, a training area for farriers, saddlery, and a driving academy.
From there, we scheduled a visit to a local bodega (situated in an old horse stable) to sample Sherry. The brand of bodega and Sherry is Fernandez-Gao, established in 1750, one of the oldest bodegas in the Jerez region. Bodega Fernandez-Gao produces a limited range of Sherry and Brandy. We sampled Sherry (ranging from sweet to dry) and brandy, ranging from 25 to 15 proof. There was a barrel on-site that was over 200 years old and 250 proof (illegal to consume – but they mentioned they had small samples during the holidays). Naturally, we departed with bottles in hand.
On the journey back, we disembarked from the train and visited Plaza de Espana, the Spanish Square of Seville. This Plaza was created for the Ibero-American exhibition of 1929. The structure of the Plaza is a semicircular design featuring Spanish Renaissance style decoration – a breathtaking environment. At the base of the building are 52 segments of 7,000 mosaic tiles portraying the 52 Spanish provinces. The Plaza boasts a large fountain at its center, encircled by canals and bridges (with rowboats). Horse-drawn carriage rides are also offered. The exhibition aimed to symbolize peace with its former American territories.
Day Five
We boarded a fast train to Cordoba, another UNESCO World Heritage site. The city showcases its Roman heritage with the interplay of Christian, Islamic, and Jewish cultures throughout its timeline. Cordoba is renowned for the Mezquita-Cathedral, the Great Mosque of Cordoba, constructed in the 8th century. Historians suggest the location was initially a Roman temple; this temple was repurposed into a church in 572. The church was subsequently converted into a mosque. The mosque underwent extension over two centuries. The prayer hall features two-tiered columns with matched arches, with the horseshoe-arched mihrab (or prayer niche) being a focal point, adorned with an elaborate shell-shaped dome ceiling sculpted from a single marble piece. Although numerous architectural modifications were made by Christians, the grandeur of the columns and the expansive area still dominates this remarkable edifice.
During our time in Cordoba, we took a moment to view the Roman Bridge spanning the Guadalquivir River, built in the 1st century BC. This bridge was featured in Game of Thrones as the Long Bridge of Volantis.
Day Six
Eventually, we made our way back to the car (still at the train station) and drove to the coast to reach our next VRBO in Malaga, which had a garage for the vehicle – a snug fit but manageable. The route from Seville to Malaga featured terraced farming on the steep inclines and greenhouses lining the road. The quantity of olive trees in the area is astonishing – it’s difficult to envision how the olives are harvested from such steep slopes; it certainly appears labor-intensive.
We decided to pause in Ronda en route to Malaga (approximately an hour and a half drive from Seville).
Ronda, Spain, is celebrated for the Puente Nueva “New Bridge” constructed in 1793 (which collapsed several years later), and a new bridge commenced in 1759, completed in 1793 (height 98 meters). This bridge connects the two sides of the village over a gorge that drops 100 meters deep. The village’s two sides are picturesque, featuring a collection of whitewashed businesses and homes positioned atop the Gorge between the bridge. The scene is awe-inspiring.
We also visited The Plaza de Toros; this bullring was the first ever constructed in Spain during the late 18th century and is entirely composed of stone. My sister spent the remainder of the trip seeking a t-shirt featuring a circle with a slash through the bull. To our astonishment, in Madrid, she successfully identified an event protesting against bull cruelty; we lost track of her for an hour.
Day Seven
We made our way to Granada (1.25 hours drive from Malaga) to explore the renowned Alhambra palace and fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Alhambra is situated on a rocky elevation — a fortress encircled by the Sierra Nevada mountains. The name Alhambra is derived from an Arabic term meaning “red castle,” owing to the reddish stones on the towers and walls encompassing the compound. The extensive complex is home to beautiful gardens, palaces, a citadel, sultans, and high government officials.officials, and elite troops – the tour lasted three hours, and I am certain we didn’t view everything.
Like numerous aspects in Spain, it commenced as a Muslim Medieval City and transitioned into a Christian court in 1492. This became the final Moorish bastion in the Iberian Peninsula. Observing the preservation and splendor of this complex is a “must-do” while visiting Spain. Ensure you reserve your tickets in advance; it tends to sell out.
Day 8
It began to rain the previous night, and the weather forecast indicated it would persist the next day. The heavy rainroused most of us during the night. Today was intended to be our excursion to Morocco; however, we opted to cancel the ferry and tour. What we discovered was that the storm hit fiercely and tragically resulted in some fatalities in towns we were very near — a sorrowful day for Spain.
Instead, we opted to remain in Malaga and explored the Picasso Museum and his childhood residence. Numerous early pieces by Picasso illustrate Malaga and how it influenced his artistry at this museum (bulls, dancers, etc.). The museum showcases over 50 paintings/drawings from his childhood and early adolescence, alongside works from other Malaga artists. Picasso’s birthplace museum housed him and his family from 1881-1884. This museum contains illustrated books by Picasso (and other artists) and notebooks of his preparatory sketches (cubism), lithographs, and ceramic art. After the museum, we strolled along the shore/marina amidst sidewalk vendors and admired the enormous private yachts.
Day 9
We lingered in Malaga and visited the Alcazaba, deriving from the Arabic term “Al-qasbah,” which translates to a fortified palace. This fortress was constructed during the 10th century on a hill in the city’s heart, overlooking the port. Alcazaba has been regarded as the most stunning fortress in Spain. The stronghold integrates Roman, Spanish, and Moorish architecture with arches, greenery, and exotic flora in and around the grounds and courtyards. Much of the palace was reconstructed or restored in the 20th century using archaeological remnants. There are three courtyards: Patio de los Naranjos (courtyard of the Orange Trees), Patio de la Alberca (Courtyard of the Pool), and Patio dei Aljibe (named after a cistern developed beneath it).
The Gibralfalo castle was established in 929 AD and expanded in the 14th century, adding a connecting wall to the Alcazaba. The castle dominates the city and presents sweeping views of the landscape, La Malagueta bullring, and the Mediterranean Sea.
To access the castle, ascend (straight up for over 30 minutes) narrow cobblestone paths and winding steps (without handrails) to reach the summit. It’s rewarding, the views are breathtaking, but we realized upon reaching the top that there’s no need to climb. From the castle, we observed a tourist bus from the town ascending the mountain’s rear.
Day 10: Halloween
It was time to travel to Madrid, where we would conclude our memorable expedition.
We resided in Madrid’s theater district, also referred to as the Literary Quarter, which facilitated walking to all the sites we wished to visit.
The first location was Puerta del Sol, a vibrant square in the center of Madrid bustling with people and activity. This square represents the convergence of numerous historical landmarks and main thoroughfares and serves as the starting point for all major radial roads in Spain. Initially, Puerta del Sol was the location of one of the city’s gates.
On our way back to the hotel, we traversed another grand square named Plaza Mayor, situated in the oldest part of the city. The square features restaurants and quaint shops, with street musicians and artists showcasing their talents.
We revisited both squares to experience Halloween in Spain; we had not yet ascertained whether they celebrated the occasion. I purchased face tattoos for us to wear. As we departed the hotel, we learned that they do celebrate, but it is more focused on honoring the deceased than the spectacle it is in our country. While children in the U.S. don princess outfits or teddy bear costumes, Madrid leans more towards dark, eerie appearances. Individuals would pass by with tiger scratches on their faces or a knife embedded in their necks. One nurse had a syringe protruding from her skull. This was the height of people-watching!
Day 11
We set off to admire the famous masterpiece Guernica by Picasso at the Museum Reina Sofia. This celebrated artwork conveys the torment inflicted by the Guernica bombing on April 27, 1937, during the Spanish Civil War. The museum is splendid, with multiple levels and galleries. I particularly enjoyed the war poster collection located on the same floor as the Guernica.
For the Day of the Dead, the Casa de Mexico Foundation in Spain presented an Altar of the Dead, the largest in Europe. The line to enter was excessively long, so we strolled past the entrance, paused, and viewed the altar from the street.
Palacio Real de Madrid (the Royal Palace), serving as the official home of the Spanish monarchy, is the most extensive palace in Europe. It has existed for close to three hundred years and is designated solely for state functions. We did not explore the interior, but the grounds were beautiful, and the palace is twice the size of other European palatial residences, such as Buckingham Palace or the Palace of Versailles.
Adjacent to the Royal Palace stands the Neo-Gothic Cathedral de Santa Maria. Construction began in 1883 and was completed over a century later when it was consecrated by Pope John Paul II in 1993, representing the first cathedral consecrated outside of Rome.
Gran Via Street, often referred to as the “Spanish Broadway”, is a haven for shoppers, featuring prominent fashion brands lining both sides of the street. This area buzzes with both tourists and locals — practically everyone in Spain seems to be here. Dubbed “the street that never sleeps,” it boasts numerous dining and drinking establishments, small plazas, and entertainment venues.
While on the lookout for a cocktail, we sought out a spot named “Fat Cats.” Strangely, it eluded us — there was no indication outside. Though Google Maps guided us to the location, all appeared quiet or so we believed. Eventually, we knocked on the black door devoid of windows, and to our astonishment, we had arrived! It turned out to be a speakeasy cocktail lounge designed to mimic a high-profile 70’s dinner gathering.
This was a superb way to conclude our journey.
If you decide to visit
Cuisine in Spain: Each morning began with coffee, crusty bread, cheese croissants, and Jamon Iberico ham accompanied by jelly. Later in the afternoon, we indulged in tapas (small plates) for our dinner: Paella (a rice dish featuring rabbit, chicken, or seafood), Jamon Iberico (Iberian cured ham), gazpacho (cold tomato soup), pimientos de padron (green peppers sautéed in olive oil and sea salt), croquetas, fish (fried and grilled), squid (grilled), tortilla de patatas (Spanish omelet made with eggs and potatoes). In Spain, the workday is longer, with most businesses shutting down for a few hours in the afternoon. It is typical for Spaniards to dine between 9-11 p.m.
Returning to the Fun Scale: Spain boasts a wealth of attractions (and we only touched the surface), and we quickly realized that every day registered as a Type I on the Fun Scale (except for navigating the car in Seville).
The Trip’s Total Expenditure: We managed this trip for less than $2,500 per individual. Organizing the entire journey was quite the undertaking, involving securing a vehicle, accommodations, scheduling train tickets, museum entries, etc. We were fortunate to have an acquaintance who previously resided there, accompanying us, familiar with the places and locales we wished to explore and stay at.
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