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In French, Montreal is derived from “Mont Royal”, the hill where French pioneers established their presence nearly 500 years in the past. For English-speaking Canadians, the city symbolizes enjoyable moments, while the remainder of the nation cherishes this bilingual outlier for the unique flair it adds to everything from style to gourmet cuisine to artistic expressions. A lively, round-the-clock atmosphere saturates the uneven cobblestone paths of Old Montreal, while the side streets (ruelles vertes) of the Plateau district thrive on affordable rates, late openings, and exceptionally friendly personnel, quick to greet you with a “Bonjour, hello” in their cheerful Québecois accent. The francophone community has also embraced the vibe: Haitians, Moroccans, and even the French have all taken to this charming city. You’ll observe lingering British influences in the grey-stone designs (and boisterous student pubs) of the Golden Mile, which was once Montreal’s cultural core. Although its historic splendor remains captivating, there’s a feeling that the city has evolved.
48 hours in Montreal — overview
Day 1
• Morning: Bota Bota
• Lunch: Olive et Gourmando
• Afternoon: Old Montreal
• Drink: Le 9e
• Evening: McGill University and Mount Royal
• Dinner: Mercuri 109
Day 2
• Morning: Mile End
• Lunch: Juliette Plaza
• Afternoon: Centre des Mémoires Montréalaises
• Drink: Pikliz
• Evening: Atwater Market
• Dinner: Bonheur d’Occasion
What to see and experience
Bota Bota is a floating wellness center anchored in Montreal’s Old Port
ALAMY
● Refresh your senses at Bota Bota, a five-level repurposed houseboat outfitted with hot and cold baths, saunas, and sun terraces. The “quiet zones” extend into a vast garden and resort-style pool where conversations are encouraged. Scenic views of the St Lawrence River showcase mid-century architectural feats like the concrete Habitat 67 structure and the ethereal Biosphere geodesic dome, both constructed for the 1967 World Expo (two hours from £34; botabota.ca).
● Nearly four centuries ago, a fur-trading outpost thrived along the narrow brick-paved roads by the river, with French settlers and Iroquois leading the charge. Now referred to as Vieux (Old) Montreal, it remains delightfully pedestrian-friendly, even as its focus has shifted to cutting-edge fashion and keepsakes. Roam through Saint-Paul, Place d’Youville, and Saint-Sulpice, home to the stunningly gothic Notre Dame basilica (£9; basiliquenotredame.ca).
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● Move over to McGill College Avenue. With the towering modern steel art installation known as The Ring behind you, weave through McGill University, often dubbed the Harvard of the North. The campus ascends midway up the famed Mount Royal, from which a network of wooded trails unfolds. If possible, ascend the 350 steps to the viewing platform. You’ll be rewarded with panoramic vistas across the river valley (free).
Vibrant houses define the Plateau neighborhood
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● The finest literature, music, and poetry (shout-out to Leonard Cohen) emerge from Mile End. The top shops are found here as well. Independent and vintage stores are clustered along Boulevard Saint-Laurent, colloquially known as “the Main”. The legendary denim store Jeans Jeans Jeans is tucked away in an old warehouse off Rue Saint-Viateur (jeansjeansjeans.ca). Venture in the opposite direction, and you’ll discover two branches of the esteemed St-Viateur bagel institution. Get them while they’re fresh, for approximately £1 each (stviateurbagel.com).
● Countless museums showcase Montreal’s artistic endeavors, but the Centre des Mémoires Montréalaises (MEM) reveals its essence. A labyrinth of vintage neon signs welcomes you at the entrance, leading to exhibitions filled with video installations and photographs capturing life in the city over the past century. The gift shop is designed like a conventional dépanneur, or corner store, offering nostalgic candies, local sodas, and £10 tote bags emblazoned with the city’s Métro logo (£9; memmtl.ca).
● Residents gather at this location on the Lachine Canal to take strolls, set off on waterfront bike rides, and shop at Atwater Market, a stunning art deco venue lined with flower stalls. Inside, grab a picnic from Fromagerie Hamel or a can of Québecois maple syrup in retro aluminium containers featuring their original 1951 design (marchespublics-mtl.com/marches/atwater).
Residents indulge at the art deco food court of Atwater Market
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Where to feast and sip
Olive et Gourmando
Wholesome yet indulgent, the “sconewiches” and salads at this deli-café located in the historic old town deliver a delightful and gratifying post-spa experience. Their challah grilled cheese comprises two varieties of Swiss cheese along with a container of dipping ketchup; the Salty Ricotta “salad”, paired with garlic bread, features a light touch of rapini, heavily laden with nuts, parmesan, currants, and house vinaigrette (mains from £11; oliveetgourmando.com).
Le 9e
The century-old Eaton department store reintroduced its ninth-floor restaurant — “the Neuvième” — after an extensive restoration that rejuvenated its “deco moderne” carvings and cruise liner-style windows to their shining splendor (be sure to check out the impressive view from the women’s restroom). Observing the crowd is best experienced at the original circular bar with a “Flip Écossais” whiskey cocktail (cocktails from £10; le9montreal.com).
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Mercuri 109
The reigning master of Italian dining in Montreal, chef Joe Mercuri, revitalized his career with this elongated, narrow “bar à manger” situated in a former newsstand (pronounced in French, 109 translates to sang neuf, or “new blood”). Patrons dine at the counter and can converse with Mercuri, who personally sauces the seared wild salmon and braises the oxtail for his ricotta ravioli each evening (six-course menu £69; mercuri109.com).
Juliette Plaza
The declining market street Saint-Hubert is experiencing gentrification, thanks to Juliette. Serving as a sister restaurant to the neighboring bistro, Montreal Plaza, it offers Québecois classics like maple syrup-infused cocktail sausages, deviled eggs, and pork belly with pineapple ketchup. The nostalgia penetrates the decor as well: walls are adorned with Asterix comic strips; figurines — bonhommes — populate every table (mains from £10; montrealplaza.com).
Pikliz
This lively Haitian café in the emerging St-Henri neighborhood, named after a kimchi-inspired condiment, frequently hosts friends. They gather during happy hour for lager in stubby bottles and “drinks” (as referred to in Haitian Creole), such as hibiscus lemonade mixed with tequila (from £6; restaurantpikliz.com).
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Bonheur d’Occasion
Drawing inspiration from Atwater Market — alongside various local fisheries and farms — this elongated wooden restaurant curates its menu around the perfect scallop, char, asparagus, or squash au moment. Enthusiastic servers bring sharing plates sprinkled with fresh herbs, drizzled with zesty vinaigrettes, or soaked in creamy hazelnut butter (mains from £18; bonheurdoccasion.net).
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Where to rest
Hôtel William Gray
Boutique Hôtel William Gray features welcoming staff and a prime location
ALEXI HOBBS
Social hub in the old town
Part heritage home, part modern haven, this recently established boutique hotel feels like a private club nestled at a historic — and bustling — intersection. Glide past the doorman while onlookers marvel, and then relax on the roof terrace where, during winter, each table is shielded by its own transparent dome. The personnel are refreshingly cordial and laid-back, even amidst the lively chaos in the sparkling atrium “living room.” A fully equipped spa and thermal water circuit incurs an additional charge; however, Bota Bota (featured above) is in close vicinity (room-only doubles from £154; hotelwilliamgray.com).
Auberge de la Fontaine
Neighborhood getaway
This uptown lodge emphasizes its cozy parkside appeal with exposed brick, quaint quilts, and a cabin-like ambiance. Friendly staff assist with arranging parking and recommend poutine spots (Ma Poule Mouillée, just five minutes away). Breakfast, a reasonable £10 add-on, features fresh croissants from the favored neighborhood bakery, although with this prime Plateau location, dining options are plentiful (room-only doubles from £73; aubergedelafontaine.com).
Vogue Hotel
Vogue Hotel offers spacious standard accommodations
City center retreat
This grande dame of the Golden Mile has just revealed a customized new aesthetic featuring creamy leather and travertine. Standard accommodations are nearly as expansive as superior king rooms, starting from 35 sq m, and come stocked with Le Labo amenities for the bath (along with a separate shower). Its name pays homage to the designer department store located across the street — and to the fashionable crowd that fills the bar and restaurant on weekends. À la carte breakfast is notably quieter, and service tends to be leisurely (room-only doubles from £173; hilton.com).
Reaching your destination and navigating
Air Canada provides non-stop service from London Heathrow with an average travel duration of approximately seven hours; the airport is situated around 30 minutes from the downtown area. British Airways flights from Heathrow are similar in cost. Local areas are pedestrian-friendly — and it’s advisable to walk during the day, owing to traffic conditions. Taxis are readily available and fares are reasonable. You’ll discover Bixi Bikes (bixi.com) almost everywhere — simply download the application and unlock one for under £1.
Travel with consideration
Montreal is conveniently linked by train, facilitating travel throughout the province of Quebec. Pettitts offers a week-long dual-centre journey with accommodations in Montreal and Quebec City, the historic provincial capital boasting a UNESCO-listed old town. Transportation between the two cities occurs by train along the St Lawrence River, providing views of the Laurentian mountains and an optional day excursion to Mount Tremblant — a favored spot for autumn foliage viewing, winter skiing, and summer activities; seven nights’ room-only starting from £1,700 per person, which includes flights and train services (pettitts.co.uk)
Ellen Himelfarb was hosted by Destination Canada (destinationcanada.com) and Tourisme Montréal (mtl.org)
Have you been to Montreal? Share your experiences in the comments
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This page was generated automatically; to view the article in its original context, please visit the link below:
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