Oliviero Toscani: The Visionary Photographer Who Challenged Norms with Bold Benetton Ads Passes Away at 83

Tributes have been offered for Oliviero Toscani, the renowned Italian fashion photographer known for the provocative visuals featured in Benetton’s marketing initiatives, who has passed away at the age of 83.

For two decades, Toscani served as the art director for the international clothing retailer, and he died on Monday after being admitted to a hospital near his residence in the Tuscan town of Cecina.

Born in Milan, the photographer informed Corriere della Sera newspaper in August of the previous year that he was battling a terminal illness and was uncertain about how much time he had left.

“With deep sorrow, we announce that today, January 13, 2025, our cherished Oliviero has begun his next journey,” his family declared in an Instagram statement. “We respectfully request discretion and understanding during this time.”

Throughout his career, Toscani collaborated with esteemed fashion publications such as Elle, Vogue, GQ, and Harper’s Bazaar, capturing images of icons including John Lennon, Andy Warhol, and the famed Italian filmmaker Federico Fellini.

However, he was most recognized for visuals that highlighted pressing social issues, spanning topics from HIV/Aids and racial discrimination to capital punishment and mafia violence, predominantly through the United Colors of Benetton advertising campaigns of the 1980s.

One of his most contentious works was the depiction of David Kirby, a man suffering from Aids, on his deathbed surrounded by family, featured in a 1992 Benetton campaign amid the height of the health crisis in the United States.

Other stirring images encompassed a kiss between a priest and a nun, portraits of men on death row, a black mother nursing a white infant, and a still-bleeding newborn baby with its umbilical cord attached.

Toscani’s artistry received both acclaim and condemnation, inciting consumer backlash and boycotts against Benetton, with numerous advertising campaigns being banned in Italy and France.

He also drew criticism for his 2007 photograph for the brand Nolita featuring model Isabelle Caro, who suffered from severe anorexia and was captured nude. She subsequently passed away due to the illness. The image, synchronized with the Milan fashion week, was displayed on billboards marked with the phrase “No Anorexia” across the photo.

In a 2016 interview with a photography blog, Toscani expressed that businesses have a duty to “demonstrate [their] social awareness and sensitivity to the society” surrounding them.

On Monday, Giuseppe Sala, the mayor of Milan, remarked that Toscani had made “an unforgettable impact” on the realms of photography and communication.

“His images and campaigns incited thought and reflection,” he noted.

Lawmakers from the Five Star Movement honored a “visionary and brave artist” who knew how to “convert photography into a powerful medium for societal introspection”.

“With bravery and innovation, he challenged norms, dismantling constraints and unveiling fresh perspectives in the domains of art and advertising. His pioneering vision will resonate with future generations.”

In 2020, Benetton severed its connection with Toscani after he made dismissive remarks regarding the 2018 Genoa bridge collapse that resulted in 43 fatalities. At that time, the Benetton family was the primary shareholder of the company responsible for managing the bridge.

Before his passing, Toscani disclosed that he was afflicted with amyloidosis, a condition where abnormal protein deposits accumulate in the body. He stated that the uncommon ailment caused him to lose 40kg within a year, as he informed Corriere the previous year.