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I often contemplate what constitutes an exceptional family vacation. The tourism sector may lead you to believe that traveling with children should feature vivid colors, ice creams, and sandy shores, but what works for one family might not suit another.
As a travel author and mother of two, I have honed my requirements for vacations into a craft: a break from work, time in nature, opportunities to engage in beloved activities like swimming and reading, and some novel experiences alongside new acquaintances. The destination — and sunshine — aren’t always paramount for me; what matters is the chance to partake in these activities.
Furthermore, I take into account my family’s preferences and desires for our vacations. My husband relishes cooking; the children enjoy playing and meeting others. Some form of physical activity appears to be effective: in prior years, we’ve swum around Iceland and hiked Italy’s coastal trails. This year, we ventured to an Arctic island in Norway for a week of screen-free tranquility — and loved every moment of it.
We lodged in a nine-room inn on a small, rocky, car-free island to the west of Bodø in Arctic Norway. It’s the ultimate nature retreat, where you can hear your thoughts, observe sea eagles gliding, and relish solitude. Managed by the owner, a musician, and his assistant, a poet, there are no structured plans, and the simplicity is a true pleasure. You could traverse the end of the island and back in the morning and still have time for coffee before lunch; it’s safe, and there’s no need for constant reapplication of sunscreen or bug spray. Naturally, it’s not a place to catch a tan either.
Getting to the inn took a little while, but that’s part of the excitement. It involved a flight from Copenhagen to Oslo, then from Oslo to Bodø, and finally a two-hour ferry from Bodø to the island. As a family from the city, as many are nowadays, the chance to completely immerse ourselves in nature was extraordinary. The tranquility was profound, and the only notable activity we observed was one Saturday when local waffles were served at the community center, which delighted the kids. We also enjoyed communal dinners with the other wonderful guests, one evening featuring performers from the Arctic Philharmonic.
My daughters, aged 10 and 14, brought along books, games, and toys, spending time together, running up and down the solitary hill and searching for globe-shaped sea urchin shells in the crystalline waters. It was a refreshing departure from being glued to screens: here, the largest screen was the picture window in the lounge, through which you could gaze at the waves, hope to catch a glimpse of orcas, and spot sea otters peacefully floating on their backs.
Our days were spent mostly in leisure — waking up late, hiking up the hill, swimming in the sea, and fishing. The kids created artwork with the local artist next to the lodge, crafting beautiful black and white prints that now adorn our walls, while I immersed myself in books and my husband handled the cooking. The hotel comprises multiple cabins, ensuring everyone has their privacy while sharing a communal kitchen.
Summer in the Arctic marks the season for observing the midnight sun: it’s when the sun hardly disappears below the horizon before re-emerging. From my bedroom, I watched the sun descend behind an adjacent island one evening, painting a vibrant pink line across the sky. This phenomenon renders the days seemingly infinite. They coalesce into one and slow the pace, something we truly yearned for.
One day, I found myself on the dock with my youngest daughter, watching as hundreds of comb jellies drifted past us, tiny bioluminescent jellyfish glimmering in iridescence, believed to be remnants of the last ice age. Alongside them, puffy orange jellyfish trailed their long tentacles, and an Arctic Tern plunged into the water with a sharp splash, resurfacing with a small silver fish. We observed the minute details and were mesmerized.
It was also a poignant escape: I realize it may be one of our last idyllic family vacations. Keeping everyone satisfied can be challenging, and parents of older teenagers often share with me that vacations with teens can be particularly tricky.
Connecting with peers and maintaining constant contact with friends grows increasingly important than fleeting moments spent watching wildlife as a family, and I comprehend that sentiment. I recall my own experiences of being taken on family trips, and I am already pondering what a suitable holiday for teenagers might entail.
Laura Hall is a travel writer focusing on Scandinavia and the Arctic. Follow her narratives in Modern Scandinavian on Substack.
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