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After viewing the amusing teaser clips for Simon Porte Jacquemus’s newest present — titled “Le Palmier” after the palm-tree coiffure popularized within the ’80s and depicted as a should to achieve entry to hip Paris events — French Elle whipped up an internet tutorial, recommending a number of passes with a boar-bristle brush earlier than tying the ponytail on the crown of your head.
The Jacquemus invitation got here with a wide-tooth comb to take away tangles, and its personal directions to attain a palmier.
Many of the fashions within the present sported the baffling coiffure, which heightened the retro spirit of the gathering, hinged on sculptural cocktail silhouettes, batwing coats, filmy attire and the type of luncheon fits Ivana Trump and her ilk might need worn again within the day.
Skirts hugged the derriere and legs, then erupted in ruffles previous the knee. But the matches weren’t at all times flattering, and a number of other outfits on this overly lengthy present bordered on pastiche.
The designer’s temper board included Paloma Picasso, one in every of his idols and a method icon of that go-go decade. His one-shoulder finale gown, the mannequin holding a wine glass over her naked proper breast for modesty, was straight impressed by a well-known Helmut Newton photograph that was pinned to his temper board.
The designer was on safer floor with pencil skirts, bra-like tops, demonstrative white shirts and draped jersey dance attire.
The menswear was additionally uneven — a go well with in Play-doh colours, anybody? — nevertheless it felt extra authentic, with particularly playful takes on tuxedo dressing. During the preview, Jacquemus reported that males’s ready-to-wear now equals his ladies’s rtw, thanks largely to the pants class, together with shirts and tailoring.
He’s nonetheless in growth mode, gearing as much as open a boutique within the Miami Design District this fall, cementing the U.S. as his linchpin market.
This was the second Jacquemus present on the Picasso Museum, although this time the designer imagined it as a wonderful mansion for a flowery occasion, lots of the ladies in feathery finery “at the limit of costume,” the designer mentioned.
“The message was to do something fun,” he mentioned. “It’s a bit my obsession this year. I want everyone to have fun, not take ourselves too seriously.”
To ensure, the present had a festive ambiance as friends watched the likes of Elton John, Sophie Marceau, Josh Hartnett and Korean woman group Illit submitting into the constructing, and later marveling as Jacquemus, feeling his oats, kicked up his heels and spun round as he bounded via the constructing for an prolonged bow.
Sitting entrance row was his grandmother and freshly named model ambassador Liline Jacquemus, who mentioned she’s at all times blissful to step up for modeling obligation. “As long as my grandson is happy, that’s all I care about. It’s family first,” she mentioned.
Few friends sported a palmier on their heads, however the kooky coiffure had Elizabeth Olsen reminiscing about her most embarrassing haircut. “I had to wear a three-quarter wig for a TV show that was very short, and so all my hair had to be cut for like two inches around my face, and that was terrible to grow out,” she mentioned.
Her seatmate Damson Idris couldn’t relate. “Actually, I’ve never, ever had a bad hairstyle,” he mentioned with a cackle. “I always looked fly.”
— With contributions from Joelle Diderich
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