Winter in Vienna is the season for music and fancy balls – Orange County Register

It began like most of my journeys do, by coming throughout an affordable airfare. I’d solely been to Vienna as soon as, a long time in the past, beloved it and all the time meant to return. But did I actually need to go in winter, when it’s bone-chilling chilly, even when I may fly there for under $400 roundtrip? I’m a California woman, in any case.

The reply was sure, in fact it could be price it. I contemplated going for the frilly Christmas markets for which town is known, nevertheless it’s too onerous to get away in December, what with the vacations and all.

Then, I remembered I’d all the time needed to see the famed snow-white Lippizaner stallions on the Spanish Riding School, and I’d learn concerning the a whole bunch of balls that happen every winter. Plus, Vienna is taken into account the world’s finest metropolis for classical music, and winter is when the scene is in excessive gear. Not all that stunning, actually, contemplating it’s too chilly to do a lot else.

In truth, my love of grand opera started there some 40 years in the past, when my good friend and I found we may purchase standing room tickets for that night time’s efficiency of “Salome” on the field workplace for the Staatsoper, the Vienna Opera House. We paid the equal of 91 cents. The night was enchanting and unforgettable.

Nowadays, there’s no means I’m standing for 3 hours, however I’m nonetheless low-cost, so I paid 16 Euros (round $20) for obstructed view tickets to “The Marriage of Figaro.” Mozart wrote the opera in his home close by and it premiered in Vienna in 1786. We had been in our low-cost seats within the third row of a field, so couldn’t see the entire stage, however we noticed sufficient to benefit from the present. It’s positively price going to see this Renaissance and Gothic revival palace of music, opened in 1869, even in the event you’re not an opera fan, nevertheless it’s important to get advance tickets on-line, though you possibly can nonetheless get standing room tickets on the field workplace on the identical day. They’re not 91 cents anymore, however nonetheless fairly low-cost.

Back once we purchased our airplane tickets in September, I couldn’t cease the ridiculous ideas of going to a ball. I’m 69 years previous — a bit of lengthy within the tooth to fake to be Cinderella. I reside in T-shirts and mother denims. I owned nothing that might be worn to a elaborate event, not to mention a ball. But the concept stored rising on me, till lastly it popped out, absolutely grown. I wanted to go to a ball. Any ball. No one was inviting me again residence, so I clearly wanted to go to Vienna.

Luckily, my good friend Lori agreed to come back with me (She’s bizarre too).  I went on-line and acquired tickets for 210 Euros every to the Coffee Brewers Ball — supposedly among the finest within the metropolis. (Don’t chortle, espresso is a faith there.) Then, in fact, we needed to go purchase formal night robes, sneakers, stockings, clutches and gloves. I discovered The Dress Outlet within the downtown L.A. garment district that had plus dimension attire, and scored a silver sequined robe on sale for $59. We additionally purchased sufficient chilly climate clothes to outfit a polar expedition — and we wanted it.

On arrival, we checked into the beautiful 130-year-old Hotel Kaiserhof, an antique-filled place with a sort, useful workers.

On our first morning, we headed to the Belvedere Museum, a baroque former palace that retains its grandeur. The acres of attractive gardens had been frozen in January, however the palace retains its large crystal chandeliers, painted ceilings, gilt trim and all its imperial splendor.

Our vacation spot was the gathering of work by Gustav Klimt, including his most famous, “The Kiss.” The artist used actual gold of their building they glow even at this time. This didn’t disappoint.

Afterward, we headed to the Hofburg Palace, the place we’d reserved a strolling tourof the Imperial Apartments, together with the Sisi Museum. Sisi was the nickname of Empress Elisabeth of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. We’d just lately watched an engrossing PBS collection about her life. In a narrative that’s probably apocryphal, she was 16 years previous when she accompanied her aristocratic Bavarian household to Vienna, the place her sister Helene was to satisfy Emperor Franz Joseph, to whom she was already engaged to be married. But after they arrived, the emperor was so smitten with Sisi that he broke his engagement to her older sister, and married her as a substitute. That was solely the start of a completely distinctive life for a royal spouse.

After touring the excessively grand Imperial Apartments, I felt my little tract home at residence was a bit of missing. But then I don’t want dozens of servants to handle it.

Our subsequent massive journey was visiting the Spanish Riding School, which has been well-known for its pure white “dancing” Lippizaner stallions for a whole bunch of years. The identify dates again to a former emperor, a Habsburg from Spain, who introduced his horses with him. The first point out of a driving enviornment on the positioning dates again to 1565. And, to this present day, they’re meticulously skilled from colts to carry out spectacular feats of dressage, together with some who can carry their entrance legs and appear to prance off the bottom.

For horse lovers, it’s a panoramic deal with to see them. After the efficiency, we took a guided tour of their stables, the place the equines are handled like the celebs they really are. Each horse has its personal rider, who trains it from a younger age and stays with the horse till it retires. We received a have a look at their fancy present tack, together with bridles and saddles, and realized about their lives. We weren’t allowed to pet them, which I perceive as a result of strangers may make them sick, nevertheless it was onerous to maintain my fingers in my pockets. The tour was alleged to final an hour however truly was solely 37 minutes, which was annoying, however nonetheless worthwhile.

And then there have been the balls. I used to be in a position to get press tickets to see the annual Vienna Philharmonic Ball, which is without doubt one of the most sought-after and prestigious within the metropolis. Tickets go on sale in January. This 12 months, the 100-year-old occasion offered out in solely 80 minutes, in line with the ball director, Paul Halwax.

Each 12 months, employees take away all of the seating from the elegant, gilded Musikverein — the live performance corridor the place the famed Vienna Philharmonic performs — and switch it right into a ballroom that may maintain some 2,600 individuals. And we felt like we encountered all of them, because the elegantly attired friends had been crammed cheek-to-jowl within the large area. In addition to the principle ballroom, there have been bars and different locations to listen to music and dance the night time away, and I imply that actually. Vienna balls usually begin round 9 p.m. with a processional of white-clad debutantes dancing, after which proceed all night time till 4:30 or 5 a.m. punctuated by particular occasions corresponding to ballet or opera performances.  Afterward, attendees ignore their sore toes and head out to get conventional Vienna sausages for breakfast earlier than going residence.

The most elegant balls, just like the Philharmonic, are unyielding about their gown codes: White tie and tails for males and lengthy night robes for women. Some balls enable tuxedos as nicely. People who flip up underdressed are turned away with regrets. Every 12 months, some women present up briefly cocktail attire, and are generally irate at being refused entry, regardless that each venue, usually even the tickets themselves, describe the gown code prematurely. The Philharmonic ball, ever solicitous of its elite friends, supplies seamstresses, hairdressers and cosmeticians on web site for emergency repairs.

Vienna is called town of balls, and a few 400 are held yearly, sponsored by commerce associations or different teams. The official ball season begins on Nov. 11 at 11:11 a.m. Most of the balls are held in carnival season of January and February, ending by Ash Wednesday, however there are some outliers at different occasions as nicely. Generally, anybody should buy a ticket to a ball, however be warned that they sometimes promote out.

For this journey, I needed to break my cardinal cheapskate rule of by no means paying to verify a bag on the airport, as a result of bringing a night robe (truly two, as a result of I purchased one for the opera as nicely)- was not possible in my tiny carry-on bag.

Keep this in thoughts, although: Regular tickets solely get you within the door, to look at and dance. If you need a spot to sit down, you have to reserve a seat at a desk. This will price significantly extra, nevertheless it’s nicely price it when your tootsies are sore and also you want a break. Waiters are additionally available to deliver foods and drinks, at further price. Champagne is by far the most well-liked possibility. Tickets for desk seats are sometimes on the market earlier than common tickets. There are sometimes additionally fancy bins on the market, with as you possibly can think about, increased costs.

Being cheapskates, we didn’t have seats, so by 1:30 a.m. our canines had been barking. But, surprisingly, the fairy story environment was so enchanting that I didn’t even really feel drained, however our our bodies couldn’t take any extra.

The following night time, we repeated the magical expertise, this time within the Hofburg Palace. The Coffeehouse Owners Ball is so huge that it takes over all of the ballrooms within the palace. With more room, it was much less crowded than the night time earlier than, so cooler. The orchestra in the principle ballroom, which accomodated 1000’s of dancers, performed waltzes and likewise different dances, even sedate rock ‘n’ roll. Other smaller ballrooms provided extra dancing, together with sambas, tangos, swing and extra. Later within the night, a jazz membership and disco opened. The total place remained buzzing till the wee hours, however once more we needed to reluctantly depart as our aching toes disillusioned us.

Incidentally, Vienna was the primary place I ever drank actual, scrumptious darkish roast espresso all these years in the past, lengthy earlier than it turned standard within the U.S. In truth, the fragrant beverage is virtually a sacrament in Vienna, which is why there’s a ball devoted to it. The menu at our resort breakfast provided us 9 totally different varieties, with lattes, espressos and different drinks with which I wasn’t acquainted.

The subsequent day, after two balls in a row, I scarcely received out of my cozy resort mattress besides to get downstairs in time totally free breakfast. I’m previous, in any case. Even in my sleep, I used to be nonetheless buzzing the waltzes I’d heard. In truth, I’m nonetheless buzzing them to this present day.

When I deliberate this journey, I thought it could be a once-in-a-lifetime expertise. But now, I’m even contemplating doing it once more. The balls had been so grand and overwhelmingly lovely. The winter season in January means no crowds at any vacationer attraction. We walked proper into museums which have lengthy strains in the summertime.

But brrrr…it’s so darn chilly! There’s no lingering strolls and window purchasing, not less than not for these weenie California ladies. And Vienna is a metropolis of gorgeous gardens, all of which had been chilly and lifeless in January.

This is one thing I have to ponder additional, though I do know I’ll be again to Vienna once more, and hopefully quickly. It is a magical place.

If you go:

• What’s in a reputation? Vienna is town’s English identify, nevertheless it’s known as Wien (pronounced veen) in German. Also notice that just about all Austrian tourism web sites have a toggle on the prime that may help you translate them into English.
• Spanish Riding School: Make positive you’ve gotten advance reservations to see the stallions. Buy tickets right here: srs.at/en
• Music: The predominant opera home is the Wiener Staatsoper, a spectacular palace of music that has performances of assorted varieties most each night time. wiener-staatsoper.at, The different predominant opera home is the Volksoper Wien, which hosts operas, operettas and musicals. volksoper.at There are too many music venues to record right here, however probably the most well-known is the Vienna Philharmonic, one of many world’s biggest orchestras, which performs on the Musikverein.
• Balls: Vienna is called town of balls, and its estimated that some 400 are held yearly. Generally, anybody should buy a ticket to a ball, which doesn’t embody seating. Tickets are already on sale for subsequent January’s Coffeehouse Owners Ball. at kaffeesiederball.at.
• Museums: Vienna has a dizzying variety of museums, together with spectacular former palaces. You may also go to the houses of well-known individuals, together with Mozart, Beethoven, Haydn, Strauss and Sigmund Freud.
• Where to remain: We preferred the mid-priced boutique Hotel Kaiserhof, which has an elevator, bar, room service, breakfast buffet and pleasant workers. It’s situated within the Fourth District, near public transportation and the historic sights within the First District. hotel-kaiserhof.at/wien