Why this unsung commuter city is extra enjoyable than its regal neighbour

If I had a pound for each vacationer that Reading will get annually, I’d in all probability have sufficient to purchase a sandwich from Gail’s. If I had a pound for each vacationer that Windsor will get annually, I’d in all probability have sufficient to purchase Reading. Geographically, the cities are separated by twenty miles or so of the River Thames; touristically, they’re poles aside.

Having acquired emails from readers signposting Berkshire as a great place for this column to go to, I made a decision to spend 24 hours in every of the cities, to verify whether or not the distribution of affection was simply and truthful or a woeful miscarriage of justice. 

My first cease in Reading was the Thames Lido, an excellent Edwardian swimming bathtub that reopened in 2017 after fifty years of dereliction. I cherished each second of my two-hour session. The heated pool, the sauna within the nook, the new tub — it was a genuinely transportive expertise. Granted, it didn’t have the convoluted slides that you just’ll discover at Windsor Leisure Centre, however I coped with the privation. The meals on the lido’s restaurant is spot-on as effectively — attempt the Swim & Dine particular supply, which will get you a dip and a two-course meal (£45; thameslido.com). 

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Next cease, Reading Museum, the place I noticed a Victorian full-size reproduction of the Bayeux Tapestry; Reading’s reply to the 230ft Norman authentic, which tells the story of how Harold acquired stitched up by William on the Battle of Hastings, was embroidered almost 150 years in the past by forty girls from Staffordshire. The authentic goes on mortgage to the British Museum from September, however the queues are more likely to stretch to Southend, so do your self a favour and nip to Reading as a substitute.

Kate Winslet is a Reading woman, and the actress has been doing a effective job of flying the flag for her residence city of late — one thing that may’t be mentioned for sure Windsor A-listers. Winslet used to work in a deli on St Mary’s Butts, reverse the Minster. It was whereas making a sandwich on the deli that she came upon she had landed her first large movie position, aged 17. 

Not removed from the deli is a pie store named Sweeney & Todd that’s so widespread you’re suggested to order your pie within the morning earlier than choosing it up at lunchtime. Next to the pie store is St Mary’s Church, whose Georgian façade would enhance any crescent in Bath — or Windsor for that matter.

As I wandered with my pie in direction of Forbury Gardens (the place I’d been advised there was a lion statue with bizarre legs), I chanced upon a sculpture of Paddington Bear. It seems that Michael Bond, the creator of the tales, was from these elements. It is alleged that he acquired the concept for Paddington after seeing evacuees at Reading station.

After checking in on the Roseate lodge (which has 5 stars, an honest restaurant and B&B doubles from £130; roseatehotels.com), I went to take a look at Reading Abbey, which was once one of many largest in Europe. It was based in 1121 by King Henry I, who died in a fish-related incident and is buried someplace close to the abbey ruins, presumably beneath a parking lot, à la Richard III. 

Next to the abbey is Reading Gaol, which has a Banksy on its japanese wall. Create Escape (2021) honours Oscar Wilde, who did time within the jail from 1895 to 1897. The art work exhibits Wilde utilizing the instruments of his commerce — reams of paper and a typewriter — to bust out of the nick. I spent some time with the portray, figuring out full effectively that the fashionable artwork scene in Windsor quantities to a few portraits by Hans Holbein the Younger.

Busting for a drink, I popped into the Nag’s Head on Russell Street. It’s a superb pub — I had a domestically brewed lager known as Ding, which should be how the locals (who care not for apostrophes that point out omissions) consult with their residence city. 

After a gig on the Purple Turtle and a few mead on the Alehouse, I completed the night at a cocktail bar known as Milk, the place I loved a brace of bevvies that paid homage to Reading’s biscuit-making heritage — the primary impressed by the custard cream and the second by the Jammie Dodger. Both left me feeling very Nice certainly (cocktails from £8; milkreading.co.uk).

The subsequent morning, I took a prepare to Slough and, as a substitute of ready for a connecting service, determined to stroll the three miles to Windsor. And I’m glad that I did, for the station is among the most interesting I’ve seen — it wouldn’t look misplaced within the window of a Parisian patisserie — whereas Herschel Park (named after Sir William, the 18th-century astronomer, who was a Slough resident) isn’t half-bad both. 

But how does Reading examine to Windsor?

When I reached Eton, which borders Windsor, it’s truthful to say that it bore little resemblance to Reading. Whereas in Reading one has to maintain an eye fixed out for magnificence, in Eton and Windsor it type of smacks you within the face.

I discovered my lodging, the George Inn, on the finish of Eton High Street. My room had all that I required: a bathe, a kettle and a view of Windsor Castle. It was a no-frills institution but value the identical as the flowery lodge in Reading (georgeinn-eton.co.uk). 

I dumped my bag, crossed Windsor Bridge then continued as much as the fortress, which was based by William the Conqueror, bedded in by Henry I and redeveloped by Henry VIII. 

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I breached the fortress’s perimeter and hastened to St George’s Chapel for evensong (5pm, free), discovering a pew (or a Garter Stall, slightly) that was devoted to the Duke of Rutland, however wanted a cushion. 

As the choristers sang angelically about how horrible we’ve all been, I admired the vaulting. Given that I used to be just about on the beginning line I did a bit of the Queen’s Walkway, a four-mile self-guided path conceived to mark the event of Queen Elizabeth II turning into the longest-serving monarch. Of the 63 factors of curiosity that may be discovered alongside the way in which, three happy me particularly: Holy Trinity Parish & Garrison Church, a placing Victorian construction designed by Edward Blore (who additionally did Buckingham Palace); the Ward Royal property, a Nineteen Sixties affordable-housing improvement that doesn’t characteristic on many postcards; and Bachelors Acre, a nice inexperienced house the place you’ll discover a bronze sculpture of Queen Elizabeth II informally attired and surrounded by corgis. 

After my stroll I decompressed on the Windsor & Eton Brewery with a pint of Republika, whose identify struck me as pleasingly near the bone. 

Back on the George I celebrated the top of my peculiar trip by ordering an Eton mess. When the pudding arrived it wasn’t as messy because it might need been. “The chef has run out of strawberries,” the waitress defined. “So you’ll have to manage without.” Her announcement felt symbolic and prophetic in a method that I couldn’t put my finger on. 

So, Reading vs Windsor, which got here out on prime? With regard to how a lot I loved myself (which is a woefully subjective metric, admittedly), I’d say it was Reading, by a corgi’s whisker. 
Ben Aitken was a visitor of Go toEngland (visitengland.com)