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Beyond the creeks and mudflats of England’s east coast, greater than 30 islands fringe Essex in a ragged chain of marshland, shingle and tidal inlets. From Mersea to Wallasea, Osea to Horsey, they really feel a world other than the county’s commuter-belt cities — locations formed by brackish water, vast horizons and the pull of the tide. Some are residence to seaside huts, oyster shacks and storied pubs; others are given over to seabirds and grazing marsh. Together, they reveal a quieter, wilder facet of Essex, greatest explored slowly and with the tide tables in thoughts.
Mersea Island
Pastel-painted seaside huts line the shore, estuary air carries the scent of salt and seaweed, and fishing boats rock gently within the shallows: Mersea Island, reached through the Strood coastal path and simply quarter-hour from Colchester, is one among Essex’s largest and most accessible islands.
Its cliff-backed seashores at Cudmore Grove reveal 300,000-year-old fossils and delicate oyster shells etched into the mudflats, whereas vineyards such because the family-run Mersea Island Vineyard hint their roots again to Roman instances.
Food right here is resolutely native. Flanked by beachside fishing boats, The Company Shed is low-key but legendary, drawing elbow-to-elbow diners from throughout the UK for seafood platters piled excessive with cockles, salmon and prawns. Others go away clutching brown-paper parcels of freshly caught crab, able to be seasoned with native Maldon salt — the well-known flaky crystals are harvested just some miles inland. At the center of the village, the renovated, weatherboarded White Hart Inn attracts locals on sunny days with estuary-fresh native and rock oysters served on the patio. Inside, there are six Sanderson-clad rooms and a light-filled bar-restaurant painted deep forest inexperienced.

The menu at The White Hart Inn is steered by the seasons. Oliver Suckling

The county’s low-lying farmland and wetlands are the best habitat for lapwings. Ben Andrew
Horsey Island
Part of the Hamford Water National Nature Reserve, Horsey Island is a 300-acre haven, residence to grazing shaggy sheep and avocets wading via the marshland. Around a 15-minute drive from Frinton-on-Sea, it’s outlined by quiet pleasures: rural walks, seasonal wildlife and kayaking via slender creeks.
From the Victorian quay at Harwich, Seal Watching Harwich runs each day boat journeys via the reserve, providing close-up views of the island’s hottest residents. Colonies of harbour and gray seals bask on the mudflats, whereas infants frolic within the shallows, their coats tinged crimson by iron-rich estuarine silt. You’ll seemingly hear them earlier than you see them, their barking calls echoing mournfully throughout the water.
Staying in a single day heightens the sense of isolation. At the island’s Nineteenth-century redbrick, three-bedroom cottage — bookable via Cottage Choice — your solely neighbours are migratory brent geese and seals sunbathe on the shore. Arthur Ransome’s Secret Water, a part of his Swallows and Amazons collection, was set right here — and similar to the intrepid youngsters, after a day exploring you’ll be able to savour life’s easy pleasures, from beachcombing to having fun with slices of selfmade sponge cake baked by the house owners.
Osea Island
Osea Island retains an charisma, its 400 acres a mixture of wildlife-rich meadows and funky coastal retreats. It’s doable to go to in each season: biking previous Victorian clapboard cottages in spring, swimming in sun-dappled swimming pools in summer season, braving autumn waters as egrets watch curiously from the shallows and having fun with bracing walks alongside the windswept shore in winter.
Getting there by no means loses its thrill. The drive winds alongside the tough, rocky Roman causeway via the River Blackwater from Maldon, and entry is dictated by the tide. The island is reachable solely twice a day, although you can even arrive by water taxi — and even by helicopter from London — including to the sense of seclusion.
There’s an unmistakable A-list edge, too. Music producer Nigel Frieda owns Osea and has turned it right into a inventive retreat, the place artists resembling Rihanna document and celebrities wed away from the highlight. That identical remoteness made the island the setting for HBO’s folks thriller The Third Day, starring Jude Law and Naomie Harris.
Lined with books, four-poster beds, Chesterfields and roll-top baths, Osea Island’s seaside cottages are relaxed areas to remain, the place muddy boots are welcome after foraging walks alongside the shore. There are televisions, however you’ll seemingly discover the muted calls of owls and a sky scattered with stars way more compelling.

Mersea Island is likely one of the most easterly inhabited locations in Britain. Aerial Essex, Getty Images
Wallasea Island
Owned by the RSPB, Wallasea Island is an enormous sweep of lagoons and marshland close to the market city of Rochford, and some of the formidable coastal restoration tasks in Europe. When rising sea ranges destroyed the tidal islands migratory birds as soon as relied on, a radical resolution was discovered: greater than three million tonnes of soil excavated from London’s Elizabeth line tunnels have been used to recreate mudflats and salt marsh.
The result’s 21 new islands that present important habitat for species from short-eared owls and customary terns to teals. There’s no lodging or cafe, however guests are rewarded with a few of the county’s greatest birdwatching. Circular trails hint the ocean wall, with the East Flood and Jubilee Marsh routes providing wealthy sightings and wind-scoured views throughout the rivers Crouch and Roach.
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