Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons on Reinventing High quality Jewellery

This story is taken from the Spring/Summer 2026 subject of AnOther Magazine: 

Just as Miuccia Prada’s private gown codes are the topic of indefatigable scrutiny, equal consideration is paid to her phenomenal assortment of vintage jewelry. For his half, her co-creative director, Raf Simons, who initially educated in industrial design, doesn’t put on jewelry however is actually inquisitive about its type and realisation. In 2022, and following the spectacular success of its costume bijoux collections within the earlier decade, Prada launched positive jewelry. 

The third assortment, photographed right here, is its most modern and abstracted so far. Individually reduce gems are proposed in diametric distinction, highlighting the extraordinary hues of a distinctly Prada palette of purple, chartreuse, blush and tart peach. In a daring bucking of positive jewelry conference, every stone is particularly usual to swimsuit the design of its piece, reasonably than the standard inverse. Suspended from invisible settings, the gems seem to hover across the physique like valuable planets. Paradoxically, they concurrently echo their historic antecedents but appear fairly not like something seen earlier than. Below, the 2 designers make clear the pondering behind it.

SUSANNAH FRANKEL: What is your earliest reminiscence of a bit of jewelry?

MIUCCIA PRADA: I actually don’t keep in mind. I began being , liking jewels, within the Eighties. I preferred them as a trend merchandise, one thing to make use of with trend. In my thoughts, trend and jewelry don’t differ a lot. I take advantage of each for the sake of trend. But then there may be clearly one other layer, which is in regards to the lives of individuals. Who wore them and so forth. That is my actual obsession. Sometimes I discover myself fascinated by a particular jewel with unbelievable craftmanship – who thought of it and designed it? And for who? So the lives of others, along with a trend necessity.

RAF SIMONS: My earliest reminiscence of jewelry is of my first communion necklace, which I wore at residence. It was the letter R, in a usually Seventies font. It gave me the sensation that it was one thing I’d have for ever. My mum gave it to me. I didn’t know at the moment, however once I began my model I used an R as a emblem for embroidery and in addition jewelry. I don’t put on jewelry however I’ve each my dad and mom’ marriage ceremony rings. One day I’ll put on them collectively on a necklace.

“Sometimes I find myself fascinated by a special jewel with incredible craftmanship – who thought about it and designed it? And for who?” – Miuccia Prada

SF: Do both of you are feeling the idea of jewelry is gender particular?

RS: No.

SF: Can jewelry alter the which means of garments?

RS: Yes, completely.

MP: It enhances a facet and tells a narrative.

SF: Can we discuss a bit of in regards to the pondering behind the Prada positive jewelry assortment?

MP: I’m attempting to breed what I like, what evokes me, from the outdated. I’m attempting to summary the vintage, to push the vocabulary of conventional jewelry someplace new. I’m attempting to remodel my non-public concepts into one thing modern.

RS: I believe it will likely be one thing we’ll construct over time. As an instance, this assortment could be very completely different from the primary one. In this case, I just like the boldness of the stones, each for the scale and color. I believe the method was attention-grabbing since principally jewelry is in regards to the minuscule particulars and craft. This assortment is stripped bare however daring, as a substitute of exaggerated ornament. I hope that it could result in an id in positive jewelry for Prada.

SF: Why did you resolve to indicate these items as a part of the Spring/Summer 2026 womenswear present?

RS: It felt proper. We thought that displaying them on the uniform seems would improve the juxtaposition – “anti-couture”. I actually like {that a} piece of jewelry can be an concept that offers an angle – so perhaps it’s about design …

“I really like that a piece of jewellery is also an idea that gives an attitude” – Raf Simons

MP: I’m not within the stone itself however within the form and color and within the work – the craftsmanship, the eagerness that somebody places into the making of the items, the significance of labor. I’ve by no means worn a contemporary piece of jewelry. When I purchase one thing, it is actually because I would like it to put on with one thing, it has a really particular use. I’m serious about its goal for dressing – a color, a bracelet, a bit of earring, a giant one. My new obsession is to combine jewels with embroidery, in an effort to’t inform the distinction between one and the opposite. In the present the jewels helped, as soon as once more, my concept of trend, the juxtaposition, the subversion, the error …

SF: How do you differentiate between positive jewelry and costume jewelry? 

MP: I don’t care. Generally, although, pretend requires extra fantasy. It is true that jewels are romantic however, once more, I don’t like clichés and that applies to jewelry additionally. That is why within the first Prada positive jewelry assortment I wished to bask in them – the chain, the center, the serpent, a research of the traditional symbols of jewelry since its earliest days. Sometimes I simply need to embrace magnificence. A T-shirt with jewelry just isn’t one thing I particularly like, however I do prefer to strive a brand new trend mixture. Jewellery is luxurious by definition, however that isn’t what pursuits me. I just like the objects themselves and so they assist me change the notion of what I’m carrying. They turn into vital for what they’re used for, not for what they’re. 

Hair: Lucas Wilson at Day One utilizing ORIBE. Make-up: Allie Smith at MA+Talent utilizing BYREDO. Casting: Mathilde Curel for Julia Lange Casting at Art Partner. Models: Sydney Acker at Lulu Management, Madeline Dilustro at Supreme Management, Cala Moragas at Ford Models, Rabina Righi at Success Models, Anna Thomsen at Next Model Management and Zahra Traore at Elite Model Management. Photographic assistants: Ivory Serra and Eve Alpert. Styling assistant: Sierra Estep. Make-up assistants: Marc Witmer and Elika Hilata. Production: Fresh Produce. Executive producer: Izzy Cohan. Producer: Anna Blundell. Production assistants: James Norwood, Angalis Field and Zephyr Maliki. Special because of Cassie Griffin

This story options within the Spring/Summer 2026 subject, marking 25 years of AnOther Magazine, on sale internationally on 12 March 2026.