Banda Aceh: Two Decades of Resilience and Renewal

On 26 December 2004 at 07:59 local time, a magnitude 9.1 undersea quake occurred 240km west of Sumatra, Indonesia, breaking the longest fault line of any documented earthquake (1,500km long), and unleashing energy that was the equivalent of 23,000 atomic bombs.

The tsunami waves it triggered raced across the Indian Ocean at velocities reaching up to 800km/h (as swift as a jetliner), ravaging coastal regions in over a dozen nations and resulting in the deaths of 230,000 individuals in what would be remembered as one of the most significant natural catastrophes in contemporary history.

However, it was Aceh, Indonesia – a province already afflicted by years of civil conflict – that bore the brunt, especially the capital Banda Aceh, where tidal waves measuring 20-30m surged through the city, annihilating over 60% of its structures and claiming the lives of approximately 61,000 individuals (around 25% of the population.)

Two decades later, Banda Aceh has been reconstructed and is flourishing once again. “The change has been remarkable,” states Sam Clark of the UK-based Experience Travel Group, which has recently introduced tours to the city. “It’s a testament to the resilience of the Acehnese people to witness how Banda Aceh has risen from the depths.”

Clark continues to highlight the inhabitants, their heritage, and the poignant tsunami memorials as some of the key attractions during a visit here, including the city’s proximity to other attractions such as the coffee-producing Gayo Highlands, the snorkeling and diving locations at Weh Island, and the lush forests of Gunung Leuser National Park – one of the last habitats on the planet for critically endangered orangutans in the wild. “Banda Aceh and the broader province signify the last frontier of adventure tourism in Indonesia,” he states. “And for the adventurous traveler, they will discover it’s a destination worthy of exploration.”

An autonomous region of Indonesia since 1949, Aceh was formerly a sovereign sultanate that flourished during the 17th Century under the rule of Iskandar Muda. The primary remnant from this epoch is Gunongan, a leisure garden and bathing spot. As per local legends, it was constructed as a present for Muda’s beloved wife, the Princess of Pahang, fashioned in the shape of a stylized mountain to mitigate the homesickness she experienced for the highlands of her homeland.

During the 13th Century, Aceh emerged as the inaugural Muslim fortress in the Indonesian archipelago. Banda Aceh was the ultimate destination for numerous Asian pilgrims prior to their voyage to Arabia to undertake hajj, and it earned the moniker “Gateway to Mecca”. The Baiturrahman Grand Mosque stands as the city’s paramount religious structure and welcomes visitors from all denominations. The mosque weathered the tsunami unscathed – an occurrence interpreted by many as heavenly intervention – and immediately following it acted as both a refuge for survivors and a provisional morgue for remains pending identification.

The most extensive of the city’s collective graves is the Siron Tsunami Memorial Park, where 46,718 unidentified remains lie buried. An inscription in Arabic on a commemorative sculpture depicting advancing waves states, “Be, and it is“.

“It signifies the strength of God’s will,” comments local guide Mahlizar (Acehnese individuals typically utilize a single name). “Everything is determined by Allah. Whether one was submerged, swept out to sea, never discovered or unnamed, we must acknowledge and respect His choice, even if we fail to comprehend the reasoning.”

One of the most emblematic representations of the tsunami is a fishing vessel that now rests atop a house in Lampulo village, approximately 1km from its original mooring. “That day, I believed the Earth would fracture,” recounts Bundiah, one of the 59 individuals who survived by boarding to avoid the encroaching water.

Bundiah regularly visits the site, where she shares her recollections with guests. “Sharing our stories pays tribute to the past and assists us in processing what transpired, enabling us to progress towards the light.”

The tsunami elicited an unparalleled humanitarian response and worldwide aid initiative. Over 140,000 residences were constructed, in addition to thousands of kilometers of new highways, bridges, educational institutions, parks, medical facilities, and mosques. “The physical wounds were swiftly healed, but the sorrow and psychological distress endured much longer,” remarks Mahlizar. “Our beliefs provided immense solace and were a crucial aspect of the recovery journey.”

Numerous residents attribute the resilience of Acehnese culture and community as pivotal elements in overcoming the disaster. “The profound foundations of our heritage and customs make us steadfast,” states Rosna, a member of the Tenun Songket Aceh Nyakmu weaving cooperative.

She elaborates that the age-old Pinto Aceh pattern continues to be favored by her clientele, just as it was during the era of the first sultans. “We observe it in shirts, scarves, and sarongs worn during weddings, births, and Eid festivities. It binds us together in moments of immense joy.” 

Husnul, a performer, contends that Aceh’s strong sense of identity is visibly exhibited through its traditional dances. “Essentially, we present them as an ensemble, as one,” she indicates. “The Ranup Lampuan exemplifies our eagerness to receive guests and visitors; the Seudati illustrates the resilience of our people and our faith.” (Seudati stems from the term “shahādah“, the first of the five Pillars of Islam.)

In the two decades following the tsunami, the coffee-shop culture has evolved into a significant aspect of Banda Aceh’s identity, with black kopi sareng (coffee brewed through a fine, porous “sock”) being the most sought-after item on the menu. “Life is incomplete without it,” states Muzakir, a barista at Solong, the city’s oldest coffee establishment, who shares that he sells more than 1,000 cups daily. “The only time we pause our coffee consumption is for Salah (prayer). And that’s merely for 15 to 20 minutes.”

Numerous cafes provide Gayo coffee, cultivated in the Gayo Highlands near the Acehnese town of Takengon, where the volcanic earth yields Arabica beans abundant in chocolate, nut, and caramel notes. “It has now become regarded as one of the top coffees globally,” Muzakir states. “This is crucial in reshaping the view of the area. We are not solely defined by the tsunami anymore.”

Muzakir asserts that coffee has been instrumental in the city’s evolution. “It serves as a means for society,” he explains. “It fosters open discussions between genders and enables us to consider fresh ideas and paths forward. Nokia once popularized a slogan regarding their devices connecting individuals. In Aceh, it is coffee that fulfills that purpose.”