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It’s me or him, I say to myself. I’m first in line on the Tami Tami rollercoaster, so the coveted first carriage is mine – so long as I can fend off the antsy man behind me who’s vying for it too. As the rollercoaster clatters again to its place to begin, the passengers stagger off and the gate flings open, I dash ahead like Usain Bolt, my eyes on the prize.
But I cease. And let the antsy man behind me swoop ahead and declare victory. He is about eight years previous, I remind myself, and this can be a childrens’ rollercoaster, so taking the entrance could be diabolical. But that’s not straightforward to recollect when my internal youngster is effectively and really out to play.
I’m in PortAventura World, a number one European journey park that’s an hour’s drive south of Barcelona, and blessed with Catalonia’s year-round blue skies that vary from gentle to scorching.
Two and a half instances the scale of Emerald Park and attracting over 5 million guests a yr, it feels much less of a theme park and extra of a theme world, particularly because the rides are convincingly divided up into lands. I’m in SésamoAventura, the kiddie part of PortAventura, discovered close to Polynesia (studded with tiki carvings, jungle and thatched-roof huts) and Mediterrània (kitted out as a Catalan fishing village).
Linked to PortAventura are Caribe Water Park and Ferrari Land, two distinct parks that make it price spending an additional few days, particularly in case you have kids. I don’t – it’s simply me and my accomplice right here on Tami Tami.
See, I’ve a whale of a time on fairground rides with nieces and nephews, however with no kids of my very own to supply an excuse, it’s been a long time since I used to be final let unfastened in a devoted theme park.
I turned decided to go after a number of alchemic indicators: firstly, my accomplice and his daughter returned from Energylandia in Poland and he raved about it as a lot as she did. Then a colleague revealed her plans to go to Disney World in Florida together with her fiance, reminding me of the celebrities who’ve been noticed in theme parks with adults-only teams: James Acaster (as he discusses within the Off Menu podcast), Blake Lively and Orlando Bloom for starters.
The extra I dug into it, the much less bizarre it felt to go with out kids – Europa Park in Germany has a two-Michelin star restaurant, Ammolite, as a shining instance of an adult-first theme park expertise. Plus, aren’t wellbeing specialists at all times saying that playfulness is a vital think about deep-seated happiness as an grownup?
Cut to a couple months later, and that’s why I’m within the second carriage of Tami Tami, extra nervous than I ought to be given the typical age of the clientele. Thus far, my accomplice and I’ve soaked up the environment and splashes on the Silver River Flume, and had a go on the dolphin races the place I magnanimously conceded a cuddly toy (okay wonderful, I misplaced). With Tami Tami, I’m lastly limbering as much as the rollercoaster class within the gentlest of the way. But since my final time, I’ve acquired the largest curse of maturity: anxiousness.

My mind begins doing the calculations. How a lot do I belief these machines? Don’t this stuff break on a regular basis? How strong are European well being and security legal guidelines actually? Thankfully, the sunshine swerves and curves are precisely the nice adrenaline rush I must get out of my head and again within the sport.
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From there, it barely stops. More relaxed with being an grownup in a children’ world, I leap on to the complete vary of rollercoasters, nearly keeling over with nerves as I queue however raring to return as I end. Over the course of the weekend, I be taught to navigate my means across the park, guided by the giant-sized recreations of Angkor statues, or following the caramel scent of popcorn, or the thunderous swoosh of Dragon Khan, which curves and entwines its means via the China space of PortAventura, which is convincingly adorned with minimalist pink, white and black aesthetic, completed with gold detailing.
The care with which the completely different areas have been created is an countless supply of fascination. Staying in an on-site lodge within the Far West, my every day stroll is down a dusty street lined with gold-rush period brick buildings, cacti and rock boulders. It’s uncannily like being in a rustic and western film.
Now unfazed by peer strain, I’m not courageous sufficient to attempt the Red Force in Ferrari Land, Europe’s tallest and quickest rollercoaster. Hell no. But as we stroll previous Furius Baco, a rollercoaster that intermittently thunders throughout the gleaming lake in Mediterrània, my accomplice pulls us into the queue, and I comply with it with out researching it (take that, anxiousness). That’s how I discover out in actual time that it’s Europe’s second quickest rollercoaster, rushing from 0 to 135km/h in simply three seconds. As if in a cartoon, the trip is sort of a big catapult that leaves my define and my screams in the beginning, and simply retains twisting and turning till the abrupt finish, once I’m rapidly booted out, feeling … just a little violated, frankly.
Since my theme park days as a teen, a stunning quantity has advanced. Fast monitor queues are in every single place, a lamentable reflection of the two-tier system that operates in society at giant. The idea of darkish rides (indoor rides) are actually a factor, and finest skilled with Uncharted, a mile-a-minute turbo-waltzer with the pace of a rollercoaster, and a bonus of by no means being certain which path we’re entering into subsequent. Being inside, it’s a reprieve from the solar within the scorching warmth, and likewise is available in helpful when a freak downpour catches us vest-and-shorts adventurers abruptly.
Tech is teching right here too. The theme park’s app helpfully reveals wait instances at every of the sights. And El Diablo: Mine Train is my first time on a combined actuality trip. For €6 further, I strap on an augmented actuality headset and am ushered to the entrance carriage, the place creatures that defend the deserted mine seem with each twist and switch. As we trundle via, a floating island seems suspended within the sky, dragons swoop over my head, and within the grand finale, we’re swallowed complete right into a serpent’s mouth. It’s so exhilarating I overlook to be scared.

Thankfully, we’re not the one grown-ups right here. Couples move one another with a glance of quiet solidarity, and teams of twenty-somethings roam the park unchecked. On the Grand Canyon Rapids, we share a raft with a household of 4 from Belfast. “I also came here with the lads, before the kids were born,” says dad James. “It was brilliant. We rode what we wanted and split off when we felt like it.” It’s arduous to say whether or not his misty eyes are from the spray of the rapids, or one thing else totally.
Once I depart the gates of PortAventura and wind up the Catalonian coast to the airport, I can safely say I cherished the exuberance that comes with unleashing my internal youngster. And it’s double the enjoyable once I even have the advantages of being an grownup – particularly my very own cash, and the power to run riot with out being informed off.
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Primal scream remedy is claimed to learn us because it provides permission to launch feelings and stress in a wholesome means. Well, attempt screaming on the prime of your lungs, on a loop-de-loop, on a gloriously sunny day, coronary heart beating from the adrenalin rush. My, does the stress dissipate.
It’s additionally a pleasure to shake off my grownup seriousness, one thing I do know I don’t do typically sufficient. In that gated world, as a substitute of worrying about how you can diplomatically phrase emails or formatting shows neatly, I confirmed no disgrace in wanting to fulfill the Cookie Monster (between us, it was a vacation spotlight), or queuing up for ice cream with folks half my peak.
I depart satisfied that playful enjoyable shouldn’t really feel indulgent or defiant. We adults ought to nonetheless discover enjoyment of rollercoasters – maybe it’s nearly figuring out when to let an eight-year-old go first.
Shilpa Ganatra was a visitor of PortAventura World.
How to get there: Park entry for adults begins from €34, go to portaventuraworld.com to e book. Ryanair and Vueling fly from Dublin to Barcelona, from €72 return. Ryanair fly from Cork to Barcelona, from €62 return.
This web page was created programmatically, to learn the article in its unique location you may go to the hyperlink bellow:
https://www.irishtimes.com/life-style/travel/2026/04/13/i-went-to-portaventura-world-without-children-and-remembered-how-to-have-fun-again/
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