Forget Florence: six of the most effective cities in Tuscany to flee overtourism | Tuscany holidays

Although steps are being taken – town council has launched a ban on new short-term lets and is selling sights in lesser-known neighbourhoods – tackling overtourism is a problem. And different Tuscan cities, corresponding to Siena and San Gimignano, are struggling too. But past these honeypots, Italy’s fifth-largest area is stuffed with glories, with not a takeaway chain or selfie stick in sight. Here are six of my favourites.

For structure: Monteriggioni

To hit Monteriggioni throughout its medieval festival in July is to be transported to the center ages: the entire city turns into a stage on which native re-enactors recreate Thirteenth-century life, with artisans, entertainers, troopers and musicians within the streets, and inns serving historic recipes. Festival aside, this tiny city is outstanding for its intact structure. It was constructed by the Republic of Siena round 1213 to keep at bay Florentine aggression, and it’s nonetheless doable to stroll round its 570 metres of wall, with two gates and 14 watchtowers. Inside there’s a church, a museum and gardens as soon as used to develop meals in case of a siege. All cobbled streets and panoramic views, it feels intimate however not often crowded. On the sq., Il Tagliere Medievale is the place to people-watch over cured meats and cheese and a carafe of chianti.
Stay at Il Piccolo Castello, doubles from €115 B&B

For idealists: Pienza

Is there such a factor as an “ideal city”? In 1459, Pope Pius II rebuilt his birthplace, Corsignano, in keeping with the scientific and humanist standards architects and planners believed cities ought to fulfil, with harmoniously proportioned streets, buildings and fortifications. Naturally, he then renamed the city after himself. Pienza is tiny – about 2,000 inhabitants – and greatest explored on foot. The predominant sq., Piazza Pio II, is a small house shared by the cathedral and the honey-coloured Piccolomini Palace, Pius’s summer time residence. The three colonnaded loggias (lined walkways) going through the Piccolomini’s backyard counsel the concord architect Bernardo Rossellino was aiming for. Human concord is evoked by road names Via dell’Amore and Via del Bacio (kiss): each result in a walkway with panoramic views over the Val d’Orcia. Foodwise, Pienza is understood for its pecorino cheese: strive it at La Terrazza del Chiostro, run by younger chef Massimiliano Ingino.
Stay at Agriturismo Casalpiano, doubles from €135 B&B

For Renaissance artwork: Arezzo

On a hill the place jap Tuscany rises to the Apennines, Arezzo is wealthy in historical past and artwork, however sees a fraction of Florence’s guests. Many come for the monthly antiques fair on Piazza Grande, the sloping predominant sq.. The metropolis’s treasure is the Fifteenth-century artist Piero della Francesca’s Legend of the True Cross frescoes in San Francesco basilica, however I additionally love his serene Mary Magdalene within the cathedral up the street. From there, it’s a brief stroll throughout Passaggio del Prato park to the fortress built by the Medici household in 1540. Its ramparts provide nice views over crimson roofs and rolling countryside. In pedestrianised Via Cavour, three buddies just lately took over a former corset shop and turned it right into a deli promoting crammed focaccia, wine, goodies and olive oil.
Stay at La Corte del Re, doubles from €79 room-only

For historical past: Volterra

Volterra was based about 3,000 years in the past as a part of the Etruscan league of 12 cities. Its Guarnacci museum options a whole bunch of fantastically embellished funerary urns, however they’re outshone for me by an elongated male nude in bronze referred to as Shadow of the Evening which, although believed to have been made within the third century BC, wouldn’t look misplaced in a contemporary sculpture present and is claimed to have impressed Giacometti. A brief stroll away, the Porta all’Arco is an Etruscan gate nonetheless standing after 2,300 years. More latest monuments embody a Roman amphitheatre and a Medici fortress now used as a jail. The city can also be identified for alabaster carving: test it out on the Ecomuseum, or purchase at native cooperative Artieri Alabastro. In a picturesque alley, La Sosta del Priore (Prior’s Pitstop) gives sandwiches with fillings corresponding to wild boar, melted pecorino and lampredotto (tripe).
Stay at Villa Nencini, doubles from €65 B&B

For port metropolis vibes: Livorno

Tuscany has so many sights that its historic port is commonly missed. Originally fortified by the Pisans, Livorno was dominated by Florence’s Medicis from the 1500s, and right this moment’s multicultural vibe is thanks partly to that dynasty. Under Medici legislation, newcomers of any nationality or religion have been inspired to settle right here, and a various inhabitants – Greeks, Armenians, Jews fleeing the Inquisition – helped Livorno thrive. Today, this politically leftish and greenish metropolis is house to populations from Senegal and Morocco in addition to jap Europe.

Get a lungful of sea air on the checkerboard seaside promenade Terrazza Mascagni, then stroll as much as the Quartiere Venezia, Livorno’s Little Venice, with bridges, colored homes and two Medici fortresses, Nuova and Vecchia. Other sights embody San Francesco Cathedral and one in every of Italy’s greatest lined markets, the Parisian-style Vettovaglie. Livorno is understood for its chickpea pancakes (torte di ceci), and Torteria Gagarin by the market sells them scorching from a wood-fired oven to eat in a roll as a cinque e cinque sandwich.
Stay at Dogana d’Acqua Rooms & Art, doubles from €75 room-only

For coastal allure: Porto Ercole

A port since Roman occasions, this village on a promontory within the south of Tuscany was fought over in 1555 in a proxy conflict between Spain (supporting Florence) and France (Siena). Spain received and constructed the forts that also guard all approaches. Climb as much as Forte Stella for views over the picturesque harbour and north to one in every of three causeways linking the promontory to the mainland. The stroll into city passes the botanical garden. Farther north is the unassuming cemetery that’s house to Caravaggio’s simple tomb, an odd finale to a lifetime of brawls, murders, arrests and exile. Mystery surrounds the painter’s loss of life, however he was stated to be heading for Rome within the hope of papal forgiveness when he succumbed to “fever” – most likely an infection from a sword struggle in Naples.

For a seashore day, head out on the SP66 and take the signposted footpath simply earlier than the crossroads resulting in Forte Stella. Sandy Spiaggia Lunga is generally undeveloped, however in excessive summer time there’s a bar with sunbeds to rent. Right on the harbour again in Porto Ercole, Grano gives top-quality sourdough pizzas by the slice.
Stay at Alba sul Mare, doubles from €91 room-only